REPLACING A CORNER STEADY

[sgtangel]

Well... 2016 has not been a "Happy New Year" so far........

putting aside the turbo blowing on one car, the alternator on the other, the bathroom water leaks, and the central heating failures..... (all of which are now repaired thankfully)

Storm Gertrude decided that our start to 2016 just wasn`t bad enough....and decided to pick up our pride and joy from her nest (a quality cover, 2 axles stands and dehumidifier running for 4 hrs a day) throw her across the driveway, and add some more misery to our year.

To be fair we were lucky I suppose. It could have been a write off, however we now have a broken corner steady at rear right, a bent corner steady front left, and an as yet unknown with regards the crash landing.

My query - for a relatively capable DIY`er, is it a simple job to replace a corner steady on a 1993 Swift Corvette Diamond, or is this one where I will need to pay for labour ?
What else should I be checking for - aside from the obvious panel damage / floor damage ?

It can only get better - right ?

 

[emmerson]

Sgt, it will get better. A couple of months and you'll be out in the van!
If you can weld whilst lying on your back then replacing the steady is relatively do-able, but first check closely to see what is actually bent. You might be able to just replace the leg.

Good luck.

 

[chrisn7]

Sgt, it will get better. A couple of months and you'll be out in the van!
If you can weld whilst lying on your back then replacing the steady is relatively do-able, but first check closely to see what is actually bent. You might be able to just replace the leg.

Good luck.

Were they really welded on vans of this age? I had to replace a leg last year on my old 1998 van, and its just 2 bolts-it was literally minutes to do on an ALKO chassis,but I have a feeling it wasn't ALKO in '93?

 

[MichaelE]

i think he is referring to individual parts, as you cant weld to wood? Easier to replace the unit, 2-3 coach bolts through the floor.Biggest problem is if they spin and you can get access due to a unit or shower tray.

 

[Gabsgrandad]

Are you sure it is the leg that is bent or just the threaded screw. I had an incident a few years ago which resulted in the screw being bent. This can be replaced within the old leg, which I did. (Worth having a look?). PS. - Whilst I was sorting it, used a small scissor jack on that corner so we could keep caravanning. Also a blacksmith 'friend' straightened the old one as good as new, and I gave this to someone else who had a problem.

 

[colin-yorkshire]

yeah a 93 could just have them bolted to the floor, but until you get it jacked back up you won't know what the damage is,
could be just the screw or the btm leg, a couple of photos might help to asses the damage.

 

[chrisn7]

Quite apart from a steady getting bent, it is possible to break them in other ways The threaded rod runs through a block with matching threads, so the block slides back and forth. Unlike the rest of the steady which is steel, the block is cast alloy, and these can fracture in half as I found out. There are lots for sale on fleabay....

If you use a power drill to operate your steadies, whether on the high speed setting as I have heard others do, or the slow speed which conserves battery power, take care to slow down as the travel limit is reached. I suspect that too fast a speed/high torque results in a shock to the block, followed by a loud crack as it splits.

 

[MichaelE]

I have never seen a corner steady not bolted to the floor? I use a drill but use the torque setting set on low so never keeps trying to wind.

 

[emmerson]

All my Royales on B&B chassis have the corner steadies welded to the chassis.

 

[MichaelE]

Wow thats a pretty old van? Not an Alko or BPW chassis which are bolted

 

[sgtangel]

Will upload a few pics as soon as the weather calms down. I have got the van up onto a trolley jack at the rear right, which appears to be the worst affected - it looks like the bolt / screw holding the outside arm of the steady has sheared, and the outer arm is now no longer fixed to the bracket. The rest of the fitting looks straight, but its hard to tell.
The other side doesnt look too bad - just a bend in the steady more than anything else.
If the broken steady is indeed bolted through the floor, I see no way to get to these, without lifting the floor, as there is nothing obvious inside the van, and ripping up my floor doesnt sound good at all....

 

[sgtangel]

 

[sgtangel]

 

[sgtangel]

 

[sgtangel]

Sgt, it will get better. A couple of months and you'll be out in the van!
If you can weld whilst lying on your back then replacing the steady is relatively do-able, but first check closely to see what is actually bent. You might be able to just replace the leg.

Good luck.

Were they really welded on vans of this age? I had to replace a leg last year on my old 1998 van, and its just 2 bolts-it was literally minutes to do on an ALKO chassis,but I have a feeling it wasn't ALKO in '93?

I have had a look under the van, albeit in the dark with a torch (I work 0600-1900 so dark when I leave, dark when I get home ) but I cannot see exactly where it is attached to the van at all - I assume I am just not getting under far enough, but it is too wet and wild to go crawling about underneath it in the dark. Can you advise any more regarding your own removal refit ?

 

[Sproket]

It doesn't look too bad apart from the bent arm, your only problem is going to be getting the nuts off that hold it to the body, if they are nylocs and the thread is corroded there is every possibility that the bolt will spin when trying to undo the nut, depending on the van layout depends on if you will be able to access them from the top easily, if you can't get access to the top of the bolt to put a new replacement in the way i would get round it is to use a dremel type of tool and grind a slot in the bottom of the bolt so that you can put a screwdriver in to hold the bolt firm whilst undoing the nut, once the nuts are off it's a easy to replace the steady, good luck.

( you need to look from the front of the steady up into it at the rear they are each side of the screw thread )

 

[chrisn7]

Wow thats a pretty old van? Not an Alko or BPW chassis which are bolted

I had a 70s Swift and they weren't using ALKO/BPW then, but B&B I believe, as per the images here:
http://golden.swiftgroup.co.uk/1970s
In those days the chassis often comprised a grid as well as the twin members of today, so its quite likely the legs were welded

 

[sgtangel]

It doesn't look too bad apart from the bent arm, your only problem is going to be getting the nuts off that hold it to the body, if they are nylocs and the thread is corroded there is every possibility that the bolt will spin when trying to undo the nut, depending on the van layout depends on if you will be able to access them from the top easily, if you can't get access to the top of the bolt to put a new replacement in the way i would get round it is to use a dremel type of tool and grind a slot in the bottom of the bolt so that you can put a screwdriver in to hold the bolt firm whilst undoing the nut, once the nuts are off it's a easy to replace the steady, good luck.

( you need to look from the front of the steady up into it at the rear they are each side of the screw thread )

Thanks for the advice - managed to get under, and looks like one nut is ok, and it should free off, but the other is solid - its just turning the whole bolt - I dont have a dremel but could buy / borrow an angle grinder or similar. i have soaked it in wd40 to see if that does anything.

 

[Sproket]

Have you got access to the top of the bolt heads ?

 

[chrisn7]

It looks like the pivot pin has sheared, and there doesn't look to be any lubricant on either side. Doesn't the remaining piece just tap out (or drill out if necessary)? Then replace with a suitable bolt/nylock nut

As mentioned, the 2 bolts holding the leg to the floor can seize in their nuts, making removal difficult - there are several uTube vids about this. If you do try to remove them, start gently, no great heaves on the ratchet! Loosen a fraction, re-tighten, loosen a bit more, re-tighten - just keep going back and forth gently. This helps to loosen and dislodge any rust on the bolts threads beyond the nut. Squirt some WD 40 in to minimise friction- hopefully they will come off.

 

[sgtangel]

It looks like the pivot pin has sheared, and there doesn't look to be any lubricant on either side. Doesn't the remaining piece just tap out (or drill out if necessary)? Then replace with a suitable bolt/nylock nut

As mentioned, the 2 bolts holding the leg to the floor can seize in their nuts, making removal difficult - there are several uTube vids about this. If you do try to remove them, start gently, no great heaves on the ratchet! Loosen a fraction, re-tighten, loosen a bit more, re-tighten - just keep going back and forth gently. This helps to loosen and dislodge any rust on the bolts threads beyond the nut. Squirt some WD 40 in to minimise friction- hopefully they will come off.

Thanks Chris - you are spot on. I`ve now had an opportunity to get a proper look at the damaged leg. I have managed to tap out the broken pivot pin. In theory I could bend the damaged arm back in to shape and re pin it, my concern would be that this weakens the arm. I am unsure what impact this would have on the stability of the van at that corner. I guess it is the leg that takes the weight ?? as opposed to the arm.

You are absolutely correct regarding the 2 bolts. One "may" come off, but the other is solid. My preference would be to replace the whole unit for safety sake, but I fear I make a botch of the second bolt, and end up with a much bigger repair cost as a result of snapping the bolt.

 

[Hutch]

Stagnal, , have another look , replalce the "rivet bolt" for a bolt and nut, washersers etc, , if your fitting to the floor is not moving underload then, re apprasie the work. Needed. It is a support not a jacking point. .
Hutch.

 

[colin-yorkshire]

hi, are the damaged legs at the front or the back and do they just bolt through the floor if so it is an easy job to replace them done a few in my time, you will need to find where the coach bolts go through the floor usually under the bunks or cupboards they will be very near the end of the floor should be easy to find them under the carpet or floor covering if required just cut a little two slots so you can peel it back. these can be glued back when finished.

once you have all the bolts two at the front one at the back, [if fitted] just remove the nuts, if they are rusty just cut or snap them off you will need to change them anyway for new ones, take off the leg and then pop out the old bolts with a drift from underneath, replace the coach bolts [obtainable form hardware shop or B&Q] grease the bolt threads pop the new leg on and fit the nuts, job done, tidy up the inside and enjoy.

it really is no big deal just remember when the van was made someone had to fit them so they must be removable, and replaceable, which means the bolt heads must be accessible from the inside. you just have to find them.

 

[MichaelE]

it really is no big deal just remember when the van was made someone had to fit them so they must be removable, and replaceable, which means the bolt heads must be accessible from the inside. you just have to find them.[/quote]

It can be a big deal as if it has an end bathroom most likely the shower tray will cover the heads of the bolts as this is put in afterwards.To get access the tray must come etc etc.
I believe you have a side bathroom so you will be able to access them.
Anything is removable if it was made by someone, its just what has to be removed as well to remove said item?

 

[colin-yorkshire]

hi Michael, sorry if I got it wrong, mate, yes the tray would cause a problem, however I was under the impression the 93 4 berth corvette has 2 long bunks at the front and two at the back that made into a bunk bed using the table, so all the steadies bolts should be able to be got at under the bunks