REPLACING A CORNER STEADY

[sgtangel]

Thanks for all the advice provided.
My intention is to re-assess this weekend when I should get time to get back under the van. I intend to try bend the arm and re-pin, and if that fails I guess I will have no option but to take up the floor to replace the unit.

On that topic, as a relatively novice caravanner, and a caravan DIY virgin can anyone advise what I could expect to find when /if I lift the floor covering ? Will the bolt heads be onto a metal plate? Or simply on to the wood floor ?
Is there a recognised method of locating the bolts, or is it simply a case of measuring from the edges /known points and taking from there ?

Again, thanks for all the comments - they do help !!!

 

[colin-yorkshire]

hi, the ones on the colchester [similar layout] were just bolted through the wooden floor with coach bolts [the ones with the square under the head] and plain to see once the floor covering was peeled back,

 

[Firkle]

If the bolt heads are hidden by the floor covering you will probably find them with a metal detector which you use for tracing pipes in walls.

 

[colin-yorkshire]

come on guys!! this is getting overly complicated and it's not.
the steadies have two bolts, on the outer mounting yes, [and possibly] one one the other end. [15in or so] further in central to the other two.
there is a leg on each corner yes,
the legs are positioned under the floor approx 12in in from the side, and 3in in from the back/front. [you can measure it from underneath if required]
given that the caravan wall thickness is about 2in.
the bolts on the inside will be 1 to 2in inside the wall front or back and 10in from the side wall.
so why should one need to look for the bolts they can only be within one square foot of floor space.
in vans where there are bunks front and or back the bolts will under the floor covering inside the bunks.
simple enough. yes.

 

[sgtangel]

As I said, I appreciate all the comments and advice.

Colin, I acknowledge your point, but have to disagree - this problem is in no way simple for me - As a relatively novice caravanner, figuring out how to reset the 12v, or lubricate the hitch are "simple" tasks which are alien to a novice, but when successfully done once, become part of what we enjoy about having the van (the feeling of being able to deal with anything that arises whilst away from home)
This situation is the opposite - it almost feels like the potential cost of the repair could be more than the net worth of the van itself, and may result in us scrapping the van ( a tad over dramatic I know, but that is how we felt when it happened) therefore I seek guidance from people who know more about the issue than I, to assess whether I can successfully make a DIY repair without causing more damage (and cost).

The thought of having to remove the rear internals of the van in order to replace this steady is pretty daunting, so I ask appropriate questions to assess whether I can do it, or if it is beyond my capability and I should take the van in to a workshop to have the work done ( £££££)

Up until this happened, i had no clue how a corner steady was attached, where the bolts went, in fact aside from winding them up and down when I went on holiday I gave them no thought at all

My point - what appears a small hillock to one is a mountain to another

You appear to have a good understanding of the solution to my problem ... Are your rates reasonable

 

[Hutch]

Sgtangle, just a thought, was your van insured, you could claim if it was, as your asking about doing the job yourself maybe not, I bent a corner steady pulling out of my drive, luckily i managed to straighten the screw drive, using a scissor jack, and now after 2 years its just slighty noiser than the others, its a corner steady. If its not loose, and the screw rod is fairly straight, bolt it together, and enjoy.
I am ready for the flak.
Hutch

 

[MichaelE]

Why would you want to go through insurance? The claim would be less than your excess?
As pointed out your lay out means you can get access to the top of the bolts easily, you would be able to feel the dome of the bolt through the lino.
Personally i wouldn't try undoing the nuts? I would just cut them off as this would prevent the bolt spinning so not damaging the floor around the head.
Fit new bolts with lock nuts.
As already said as far as DIY jobs go this is a very easy job, if you can use a spanner you are half way there.

 

[colin-yorkshire]

it is no mystery doing such work in fact it one of pleasures of owning a old van, doing it yourself costs next to nothing except for time and the cost of parts, pretty simple, it really is no big deal, as far as I can see from the photos you have two options, straighten the bent bar or change the whole leg either way, it is just a spanner a hammer and possibly a hack saw to cut something,.lower the front end on the jockey wheel to lift the rear, and give more room and have a good look either cut off the pivot bolts, straighten the bar and refit with new bolts or if there is more damage than just the bar remove the nuts on the leg and change the whole lot, you not going to write off the whole van changing a leg, as Michael said if you can use a spanner your half way there.

I am assuming you can from the first post you wrote quote ""My query - for a relatively capable DIY`er, is it a simple job to replace a corner steady on a 1993 Swift Corvette Diamond,""

answer Yes it is.

 

[chrisn7]

There is another possible way to remove depending on the set up. Are you removing a nut from underneath, or a bolt? If its a nut there will be some spare threads protruding. If there is a reasonable amount of thread,it is possible to obtain 'thin' nuts - these are half as thick or less than the one fitted. If you can, run 2 thin ones on to the remaining threads, then tighten these 2 together. Hold the lowest one with one spanner, then try the main nut again. The original will not have been tightened with any great force, to avoid crushing the mounting point.
If there is not room to do this, you might grind/file a couple of flats onto the threads, and try a smaller open ended spanner, or even water pump pliers on the threads as last resort to get things started. I suspect as an older van, it will not be nyloc nuts but rather a plain nut and spring washer

 

[sgtangel]

There is another possible way to remove depending on the set up. Are you removing a nut from underneath, or a bolt? If its a nut there will be some spare threads protruding. If there is a reasonable amount of thread,it is possible to obtain 'thin' nuts - these are half as thick or less than the one fitted. If you can, run 2 thin ones on to the remaining threads, then tighten these 2 together. Hold the lowest one with one spanner, then try the main nut again. The original will not have been tightened with any great force, to avoid crushing the mounting point.
If there is not room to do this, you might grind/file a couple of flats onto the threads, and try a smaller open ended spanner, or even water pump pliers on the threads as last resort to get things started. I suspect as an older van, it will not be nyloc nuts but rather a plain nut and spring washer

I like that idea of the 2 nuts Chris - I may have to look into that one. There isn`t a lot of exposed thread left, perhaps only 10-15mm, so not a lot to play with, but if I can clean up the visible thread, and crack the seized nut, it will save a load of hassle. Nice One !

EH52 - For info, the van isn`t insured - not worth it given the net value of the thing
Michael - I have attempted to locate the bolt heads inside the van, but I cannot feel anything above where I have assessed they should be - no obvious signs to suggest there is anything under the flooring.

Intention is still to get this done this weekend - as long as the weather is half decent.
Continued appreciation of everyone`s assistance.

 

[Hutch]

Ok , shout me down lads, what about, new Leg unit , drill a new couple of monting bolts holes and screw the new leg into place with 10 / 12 mil.Coach Bolts , 3/4 long.
Hutch.

 

[colin-yorkshire]

Ok , shout me down lads, what about, new Leg unit , drill a new couple of monting bolts holes and screw the new leg into place with 10 / 12 mil.Coach Bolts , 3/4 long.
Hutch.

hi Hutch, there is really no need I can't explain it any simpler. remove the nuts doesn't matter how this is done, spanners, snap the nuts off, cut it off, grind it off, any way one can then tap the bolt shafts upwards with anything to hand hammer, drift. screwdriver, anything to push them up,
from the inside of the van where the bolt heads are should now be obvious, cut remove the floor covering in that area and remove the bolts, replace the bolts with new coach bolts the right length, if the original bolts were turning in the floor, and wont grip use either fatter bolts or wind something over the square end so it grips the floor, tape, thin wire, string. tap the bolts back in, slide the new leg or the old repaired one, over the bolts and replace the nuts.

job done, when it on re glue or staple the floor covering back down. each leg should take no more than 1 hour and that includes cutting off the nuts with a nail file,

yes it is easier if you have a workshop full of tools, but simple ones will do, it is not hard or difficult and about a straight forward as a job can be, the hardest bit is removing the nuts,

 

[chrisn7]

There is another possible way to remove depending on the set up. Are you removing a nut from underneath, or a bolt? If its a nut there will be some spare threads protruding. If there is a reasonable amount of thread,it is possible to obtain 'thin' nuts - these are half as thick or less than the one fitted. If you can, run 2 thin ones on to the remaining threads, then tighten these 2 together. Hold the lowest one with one spanner, then try the main nut again. The original will not have been tightened with any great force, to avoid crushing the mounting point.
If there is not room to do this, you might grind/file a couple of flats onto the threads, and try a smaller open ended spanner, or even water pump pliers on the threads as last resort to get things started. I suspect as an older van, it will not be nyloc nuts but rather a plain nut and spring washer

I like that idea of the 2 nuts Chris - I may have to look into that one. There isn`t a lot of exposed thread left, perhaps only 10-15mm, so not a lot to play with, but if I can clean up the visible thread, and crack the seized nut, it will save a load of hassle. Nice One !

Intention is still to get this done this weekend - as long as the weather is half decent.
Continued appreciation of everyone`s assistance.

15mm should be enough. If you can't find thin nuts, hacksaw a standard one in half, but the tighten the two remaining good faces together

 

[sgtangel]

Thanks to everyone for all the chat... I eventually had a day that wasn`t absolutely tipping it down, and got stuck in with plan A - a heat gun, a butane torch, and some brute strength (courtesy of my dad :woohoo: )

We did pretty well I think.

Both bolts were completely seized, and if this had failed, it was a "cut boltheads off and rip up floor" scenario, which was not what I wanted....

But the end result works as it should, isn`t loose, and thats all that matters.

Time for a beer !

 

[sgtangel]

 

[Martin24]

good job jobbed

 

[Hutch]

Well done, and another happy camper.