• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Thetford N80 element

T

TurnersAbbey

Fridge kicking electrics off when on 240v. Guessing the problem is the heating element being duff. Managed to get it out but searching for a replacement has bought me back down to the reality of owning a tourer. Replacement parts are crazy expensive😁. Newer models replacement is about £30 so I thought it wouldn't be to bad until I looked. Are they really over £100?!
Part number 622568

Anybody dealt with these before?
 
To say prices vary would be an understatement. I wonder if there are people who pay the stupid prices.

IMG_1034.jpegTo say

IMG_1033.jpeg

IMG_1036.jpeg


IMG_1035.jpeg




John
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1036.jpeg
    IMG_1036.jpeg
    17.8 KB · Views: 4
  • IMG_1035.jpeg
    IMG_1035.jpeg
    21.7 KB · Views: 4
  • IMG_1034.jpeg
    IMG_1034.jpeg
    480 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_1034.jpeg
    IMG_1034.jpeg
    21 KB · Views: 4
  • IMG_1033.jpeg
    IMG_1033.jpeg
    18.7 KB · Views: 4
Last edited:
Well , done , I don't worry too much about which element goes in which fridge so long as they are similar wattage and physical size , all they do is heat the metal tube containing the ammonia /water mix to boil enough per second to provide the required cooling. I apply heat sink compound and little copper wedges to make sure the the element is in good contact with its sleeve). The heaters and tubes are surrounded by an insulating jacket which keeps the heat in ,making it ll available to boil off the ammonia .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Latest posts

Back
Top