Torque wrench do i need it?

Mar 3, 2024
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Picked up our first new caravan today and the dealer was most insistent that we should get a torque wrench and check the wheel nuts to 96 Ft/LB before using the caravan each time. Even made me sign a form that I had understood this.

Weird thing is, we went on a towing class a few weeks back and this was never mentioned.

Is this correct and if so will any one do e.g. this one? I’ve never used one before but I assume you set a given setting and then it stops tightening and just clicks when it’s at the correct torque? Also - I have already removed one of the wheel nuts to fit a Wraith wheel lock and I tightened the lock nut up using just my hands on the supplied wrench (not a proper torque wrench).

 
Nov 11, 2009
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My handbook advised checking torque at 50 miles or so. I had car tyres replaced last week and tye dealership said I could come in and have the wheel torques checked at 50 miles. I have a torque wrench and have always checked caravan wheel torques after refitting a wheel, or before bringing out of store for a trip. But I did not check them during a tour or when leaving a site.

PS when inserting a link if you use the link icon at the top left of the photo icon you can condense all the gobbledygook to a word or two chosen by you. IE torque wrench.
 
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Mar 3, 2024
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My handbook advised checking torque at 50 miles or so. I had car tyres replaced last week and tye dealership said I could come in and have the wheel torques checked at 50 miles. I have a torque wrench and have always checked caravan wheel torques after refitting a wheel, or before bringing out of store for a trip. But I did not check them during a tour or when leaving a site.

PS when inserting a link if you use the link icon at the top left of the photo icon you can condense all the gobbledygook to a word or two chosen by you. IE torque wrench.
Silly question as I’ve never used one before - if I buy a torque wrench, do I then need to also purchase an attachment to it to fit the wheel nuts of the caravan - a query on google indicates that the wheel nuts are 19mm Hex? (Sprite Major 4EB 2025). As such, I guess I would need a torque wrench and the appropriate socket?

There are wrenches that come with a set of sockets, but none of them seems to specifically mention “19mm Hex” that I can see.

Maybe I need to call the dealer and check.
 
Nov 6, 2005
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19mm hex sockets are easy enough to aquire - Halfords, Ebay or Amazon - but make sure the Square drive size is compatible with the torque wrench, typically 1/2" square at that size.
 
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Oct 8, 2006
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If you have security nuts/bolts you will need an interface adapter. It should tell you in the handbook, or look at the bolt heads as a security bolt will look different to the others.

If you do not have security bolts it is worth considering getting a pair. They don't cost a lot but they may save you worry one day!
 
Nov 11, 2009
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In addition to Roger’s advice buy quality sockets as cheap ones can easily break. I tend to go for Draper or Sealey but Halfords professional ones are good too. I prefer 6 point sockets as opposed to 12 point. For the car I always swop the makers wheel wrench for a telescopic wrench with a quality socket fitted. Same for the manual motor mover too.
 
Feb 13, 2024
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Yes get a torque wrench, great bit of kit. Not only on the caravan, but if you get puncture and change wheel you can re torque it. Also when buying new tyres for your car it is recommended torquing them after a set mileage.
 
Feb 13, 2024
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Picked up our first new caravan today and the dealer was most insistent that we should get a torque wrench and check the wheel nuts to 96 Ft/LB before using the caravan each time. Even made me sign a form that I had understood this.

Weird thing is, we went on a towing class a few weeks back and this was never mentioned.

Is this correct and if so will any one do e.g. this one? I’ve never used one before but I assume you set a given setting and then it stops tightening and just clicks when it’s at the correct torque? Also - I have already removed one of the wheel nuts to fit a Wraith wheel lock and I tightened the lock nut up using just my hands on the supplied wrench (not a proper torque wrench).

OOOHHH NNNOOOO a Wraith wheel lock .
 
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Mar 3, 2024
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OOOHHH NNNOOOO a Wraith wheel lock .

Is that bad? My wife got it second hand. The guy at the dealer also said that Wraith is the one that they sell the most of. I wanted to buy an Alko secure axle lock. Dealer also told me that the patent on the Alko secure axle lock has just expired and Milenko is bringing out an equally secure device that is significantly cheaper.
 

JTQ

May 7, 2005
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Buying a single socket for the caravanning is not a bad idea, even if you have a comprehensive set IMO.
The van's 19mm could be the same size as your car's; but if not both are best carried in the car, it will therefore be readily to hand.[Many domestic cars though will have smaller hexagon sized bolts]
Be careful as if as assumed you have alloy caravan wheels, just confirm the particular 19mm socket acquired is not too big a diameter to fit inside any reassessing holes the wheel bolts are in. Here Clive's good advice to go for the inherently stronger hexagon type of socket is more likely to be suitable.

Clearly you have the obligations to meet you have undertaken.

However, it is the initial settling of the bolted wheel/hub assembly after any refitting of wheels where the way greater risks arise, and this becomes more critical where alloy caravan wheels are used. There are complex differences with most European caravan wheel assemblies, as generally opposed to our cars that make attention even more critical.

I think towing 50 miles post a wheel refit prior to a quick check is too much, my recommendation is aim at the first viable stopping place after about 15 minutes towing. Very likely all will be fine, but it just might not be and towing that distance is likely to reveal any settlement before it has serious consequences.
Once, you have checked them on several outings they are very likely to be trouble free from then on, and I must admit it is not an every outing routine for me, more every couple of monthly as convenient.

There are some replacement wheel bolts that greatly minimise the underlying issues and one caravan maker adopted them as standard following their product having a high incidence of wheels coming loose. If ever they come loose then coming totally off is very soon going to follow as it is the clamping of the wheel to the hub that is key in automotive wheel bolting systems.

Bolts readily commercially available offering a real higher level of safety are WSL , these embody some critical differences to the standard bolting. LINK . Other purchasing sources exist out there.

This is not to imply the standard bolts are not adequate, but as you have witnessed caravan dealers go to great lengths to stress the caravan's wheel bolting system needs "watching", not completely without historic cause.
It is just some of the safety factors can be improved on by using bolts with the features WSL employ in their product.
 
Last edited:
Feb 13, 2024
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Is that bad? My wife got it second hand. The guy at the dealer also said that Wraith is the one that they sell the most of. I wanted to buy an Alko secure axle lock. Dealer also told me that the patent on the Alko secure axle lock has just expired and Milenko is bringing out an equally secure device that is significantly cheaper.
Type in help on the top search bar, 4th post down, just recently had a mare with mine.
 
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Apr 23, 2024
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There was a period when Bailey caravans( who use the standard Alko trailers) were having wheel disconnects (mainly near sides) and research done at a nearby university was not very conclusive on the reasons.( Or I can't remember the conclusions) Alloy wheels on cars generally have flat face wheel nuts. Caravans fitted with alloy wheels have 'cone' (tapered) shaped mating surfaces wheel bolts and the torque the wheel nut is done upto is a compromise between securing the wheel and not stretching the alloy seat, (overtightening can cause this) the alloy 'seat' is softer than a steel rim and shrinks and expands as temperature changes . Hence the reason for checking the wheel bolts after 30-50 miles at the start of a journey, alternatively you can buy a set of 10 silver wheel nuts indicators ( like those yellow ones you see on buses and HGVs) from Milenco. It's also good at this time to check the caravan over ( electric cable not rubbing on floor, jockey wheel clamp still OK, streadies not scraping along floor, TOH not left in caravan e.t.c) Seen all these things on caravans and trailers over the years. Oh and don't use the torque wrench to undo wheel nuts it can alter its calibration. I have a 760mm strong arm 3/4" drive ( with an 3/4 " x 19mm socket to undo reluctant wheel nuts /studs saves a lot of straining at my age
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Picked up our first new caravan today and the dealer was most insistent that we should get a torque wrench and check the wheel nuts to 96 Ft/LB before using the caravan each time. Even made me sign a form that I had understood this.

Weird thing is, we went on a towing class a few weeks back and this was never mentioned.

Is this correct and if so will any one do e.g. this one? I’ve never used one before but I assume you set a given setting and then it stops tightening and just clicks when it’s at the correct torque? Also - I have already removed one of the wheel nuts to fit a Wraith wheel lock and I tightened the lock nut up using just my hands on the supplied wrench (not a proper torque wrench).
Getting the correct torque on wheel nuts or bolts is important, There is a lot of engineering science associated with why its necessary, but to keep it fairly simple, when you tighten up a nut or bolt, you are effectively stretching the threads of the fixing. In just the same way if you pull a rubber band, the more you stretch it the greater it fights back and ultimately if you pull too hard the item will exceed its elastic limit and break or permanently deform.

Vehicle designers should know that when a vehicle is in motion, there are many fasteners which will experience big changes in load, so the designers should choose fasteners which can cope with all the additional dynamic loads. If you exceed the static torque settings, under dynamic conditions the loads may exceed the elastic limit of the fastener.

Whenever a wheel is removed, the contacting surfaces can become contaminated, and if its not wiped clean before reassembly who knows what might get trapped when you refit the wheel. The fixings need to be tightened up to the specified torque, but if there's any non compressible material between the surfaces, you might achieve the torque but surfaces are held slightly apart buy the contamination. Under dynamic conditions the forces may collapse the contamination which then unloads the wheel nots and the wheel might work loose.

That is why its good practice to recheck the wheel nut torque settings after driving a few miles, and certainly before each holiday.
 

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