Truma CP25-UK Error #17

[AlOs167]

Morning everyone.
We're currently on our first ever caravan trip close to home to try out our new van. We've bought a Swift Challenger Sport 524 (2013) and we love it. One snag we've had is an error message on our Truma CP25-UK control panel. Three times we've had error #17 come on, which asks us to resolve issue then restart heating. A quick online search suggests it a blockage in the vents of the blow-air heating, which aren't blocked. When the alarm goes off, there's a fan noise from the area near boiler under the seats, and heating blows from vents. When we turn it off, the on/off button flashes green for a while then turns off. After it resets and I can switch it on again. Btw the caravan was fully serviced by an Approved Workshop. Any help/advice please.

 

[Mr Plodd]

This courtesy of Mr Google suggest a gas supply issue,

Truma error code 17, or E517H, typically indicates a problem with the gas supply or a failure to detect the gas supply, often occurring when the heating system is turned on before the gas bottle is connected or the gas supply is interrupted.
Here's a breakdown of what it means and how to troubleshoot:
What it means:
Gas Supply Issue:
The error code E517H (or simply 17) signifies that the Truma heating system has detected a problem with the gas supply.
Possible Causes:
Empty or Low Gas Bottle: The gas bottle might be empty or have insufficient gas pressure.
Gas Tap Not Open: The gas tap to the Truma system might not be fully open.
System Turned On Before Gas Connection: The heating system might have been turned on before the gas bottle was connected or the gas supply was established.
Interrupted Gas Supply: The gas supply might have been interrupted during operation, such as the gas bottle running out or the system being turned off before the Truma control panel was fully shut off.
Troubleshooting Steps:
1. Ensure Gas Supply:
Check Gas Bottle: Verify that the gas bottle is full and has sufficient pressure.
Open Gas Tap: Ensure the gas tap connected to the Truma system is fully open.
2. Turn Off and On:
Turn Off Heating: Turn off the Truma heating and hot water systems.
Reconnect Gas: Reconnect the gas bottle and ensure the gas tap is open.
Turn On Again: Turn the Truma heating and hot water systems back on.
3. Check Control Panel:
Confirm Gas Source: On the control panel, ensure that the gas source is selected (usually the 3rd icon).
Clear Error Code: Tap the rotary push button to confirm or delete the fault code.
4. If the Problem Persists:
Contact Truma Support: If the error code continues to appear after these steps, contact Truma support for further assistance.
Additional Notes:
Overheating Protection:
In some cases, the error code might be triggered by overheating protection. In this case, switch off the Combi, allow it to cool down, and then switch it back on.
Blocked Air Intakes/Outlets:
Ensure that the warm air outlets and circulated air intake are not blocked.
Consult Manual:
Refer to your Truma Combi manual for specific instructions and troubleshooting tips related to your model.

 

[RogerL]

When ever I reconnect a gas cylinder, after a disconnection, I always light one of the cooker hob burners first to ensure that gas is in the system, not air - this can take a few moments as the air is pushed out but once lit I know that gas is available for the fridge and heating system

 

[borderbilly]

Is he not on EHU according to the photo

 

[birdman101]

We had a 524 new in 2013 and from memory I think that code #17 signified the heater was set in Summer mode and not filled with water. On the top of the heater is a Red outlet valve with a clear plastic tube going down through the floor These often leak and let water go straight out underneath the floor. Check this is not leaking preventing the boiler from filing.
I used to leave ours in Winter mode all year round and then set caravan heating level down to 5 if I wanted Hot water only and no heating,

 

[AlOs167]

Thanks everyone. I was solely on EHU which seemed to work ok before error messages. I've cleared down all the errors and now set to 230/4A and gas mixture. Seems to be working fine now. Fingers crossed. Wondering if the water pump in the Aqua Roll had risen and prevented water coming in to replace what I'd used. Just an uneducated guess! Filled that too just in case. Hopefully it'll be ok now.

 

[IanB1485]

On the top of the heater is a Red outlet valve with a clear plastic tube going down through the floor These often leak and let water go straight out underneath the floor. Check this is not leaking preventing the boiler from filing.

You are wrong there as the pressure relief valve( Red valve) is at the top of the water heater , the heater will fill with water( the cold water comes in at the bottom ,as with all water heaters) , but instead of providing pressurised water ,the flow will be reduced as some of the hot water goes out the caravan through this pressure relief valve, failing to pressurise the system.

 

[birdman101]

I worded wrong should of said will not pressurise and pump will continue to run

 

[Martin_E]

You are wrong there as the pressure relief valve( Red valve) is at the top of the water heater , the heater will fill with water( the cold water comes in at the bottom ,as with all water heaters) , but instead of providing pressurised water ,the flow will be reduced as some of the hot water goes out the caravan through this pressure relief valve, failing to pressurise the system.

The red valve actually lets air in when draining the hot water system, not let it in when filling. The little ball in there can leak when it get calcium on it or a small bit of debris

 

[Martin_E]

Truma have had issues, it’s normally a case of either the PCB or the air combustion motor, sometimes disconnecting the motor on the pcb and putting it back on again can cure it

 

[AlOs167]

Truma have had issues, it’s normally a case of either the PCB or the air combustion motor, sometimes disconnecting the motor on the pcb and putting it back on again can cure it

Thanks again. I've only just bought it and it has a 6 month warranty so I'll keep an eye on it and if necessary contact the dealer. Fingers crossed it continues working ok though as it has been since I posted the question.

 

[birdman101]

Or the little ball can disappear altogether is I had about 25 years ago on the Ultrastore using the same valve. When opening the old one up it had completely gone.

 

[Hutch]

Or the little ball can disappear altogether is I had about 25 years ago on the Ultrastore using the same valve. When opening the old one up it had completely gone.

And you thought that you had gall stones.

 

[Martin_E]

Or the little ball can disappear altogether is I had about 25 years ago on the Ultrastore using the same valve. When opening the old one up it had completely gone.

+1

 

[IanB1485]

There are two fans on the combi the one that draws air in and circulates it around the caravan can stick ( the brushes inside lift off the commutator) giving the impression that the air off the heat exchanger is really hot caused by a blockage , giving it a gentle tap with the handle of a screwdriver sometimes can persuade it to run See arrow in attached photo. The second fan which is the combustion air motor it is at the top centre of the unit. It has two impellers , one blows air into the gas burner chamber( combustion chamber) and the other which is visible if you remove the inspection cover cools the electronics on the motor pcb, if this motor sticks, there is a seal on the shaft which stops combustion products from getting out and as it grips the shaft rather tightly it can stop it from turning after a long period of non-use then again the system will register it as a block intake The system also monitors the current of these two motors and will also flag these as faults, but usually only displays the first fault it sees. Turning the outer impeller by hand with the power off can free it , otherwise it's time to call an engineer and get a new fan motor pcb . There is a youtube video showing how to free the fan shaft

View: https://youtu.be/q5634r81zxo

 

[Martin_E]

There are two fans on the combi the one that draws air in and circulates it around the caravan can stick ( the brushes inside lift off the commutator) giving the impression that the air off the heat exchanger is really hot caused by a blockage , giving it a gentle tap with the handle of a screwdriver sometimes can persuade it to run See arrow in attached photo. The second fan which is the combustion air motor it is at the top centre of the unit. It has two impellers , one blows air into the gas burner chamber( combustion chamber) and the other which is visible if you remove the inspection cover cools the electronics on the motor pcb, if this motor sticks, there is a seal on the shaft which stops combustion products from getting out and as it grips the shaft rather tightly it can stop it from turning after a long period of non-use then again the system will register it as a block intake The system also monitors the current of these two motors and will also flag these as faults, but usually only displays the first fault it sees. Turning the outer impeller by hand with the power off can free it , otherwise it's time to call an engineer and get a new fan motor pcb . There is a youtube video showing how to free the fan shaft

View: https://youtu.be/q5634r81zxo

The air circulation fan as far as I am aware wouldn’t give that error 🤔

 

[AlOs167]

There are two fans on the combi the one that draws air in and circulates it around the caravan can stick ( the brushes inside lift off the commutator) giving the impression that the air off the heat exchanger is really hot caused by a blockage , giving it a gentle tap with the handle of a screwdriver sometimes can persuade it to run See arrow in attached photo. The second fan which is the combustion air motor it is at the top centre of the unit. It has two impellers , one blows air into the gas burner chamber( combustion chamber) and the other which is visible if you remove the inspection cover cools the electronics on the motor pcb, if this motor sticks, there is a seal on the shaft which stops combustion products from getting out and as it grips the shaft rather tightly it can stop it from turning after a long period of non-use then again the system will register it as a block intake The system also monitors the current of these two motors and will also flag these as faults, but usually only displays the first fault it sees. Turning the outer impeller by hand with the power off can free it , otherwise it's time to call an engineer and get a new fan motor pcb . There is a youtube video showing how to free the fan shaft

View: https://youtu.be/q5634r81zxo

Thank you so much for that detailed answer. I'll be honest, I'll call the dealer if it persists. I definitely haven't got the confidence/ability to be taking it apart 😆.
Quick update....heating on now and blowing nicely on the gas/electric combination 🤞🏼.

 

[birdman101]

It should run on elect 2 ok unless you are on a low amp hookup. Ours run every where on electric 2 over 10 years with no problems, as our new caravan also does

 

[Mr Plodd]

The red valve actually lets air in when draining the hot water system, not let it in when filling. The little ball in there can leak when it get calcium on it or a small bit of debris

On my (new) caravan the length of clear tube (the drain) wasn't fitted at the factory. I only discovered that when I woke up one morning to a very wet floor! All of the vinyl had to come up to get rid of the water that had got underneath it and fully dry the floor out. It took over a week with a dehumidifier over a week, so I can see why damp repairs can take many weeks to dry floors out. I was Not a happy camper!
I didn't bother trying to claim on the warranty as I just knew Bailey would insist it had been fitted and I must have "inadvertantly" knocked it off and it had fallen out through the drain hole.

 

[Martin_E]

On my (new) caravan the length of clear tube (the drain) wasn't fitted at the factory. I only discovered that when I woke up one morning to a very wet floor! All of the vinyl had to come up to get rid of the water that had got underneath it and fully dry the floor out. It took over a week with a dehumidifier over a week, so I can see why damp repairs can take many weeks to dry floors out. I was Not a happy camper!
I didn't bother trying to claim on the warranty as I just knew Bailey would insist it had been fitted and I must have "inadvertantly" knocked it off and it had fallen out through the drain hole.

Yarp the tube can fall through the floor

 

[IanB1485]

The air circulation fan as far as I am aware wouldn’t give that error 🤔

I am in agreement ,but when attending such errors I always check the air circulation fan runs and the air combustion fan also runs, before looking for bird nests in the intake! and as I said often the Truma flags up the first error it sees and as Sherlock Holmes once said "Once you eliminate the impossible, then whatever remains however improbable must be the truth"

 

[Martin_E]

I am in agreement ,but when attending such errors I always check the air circulation fan runs and the air combustion fan also runs, before looking for bird nests in the intake! and as I said often the Truma flags up the first error it sees and as Sherlock Holmes once said "Once you eliminate the impossible, then whatever remains however improbable must be the truth"

But the thing is you start at the beginning then work through, having said that sometimes you have a choice what end to start, one end can save half hour the other not electric can be like this

 

[IanB1485]

The red valve actually lets air in when draining the hot water system, not let it in when filling. The little ball in there can leak when it get calcium on it or a small bit of debri

I was out at a van today and took a closer look at one after your post and yes its a non return valve not an pressure relief valve as I originally thought ( never seen a faulty one yet) Well everyday is a school day on this forum!. didn't like the look of the drain/air inlet pipe below the floor , so cleaned it out with mould removal spray