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They take a time to cool. We always switch ours on the day before going away
Hi Martin
Thanks for the reply.
From further research it looks likely to be the 240v heating element, (I take it, that the same as the heating matrix) or the PCB.
I’ll do some research on replacing both.
Thinking about it, if the vented air is warm for both gas and 240v running, then it most probably not the 240v heating matrix..
Hi Birdman101, I had it running for 24 hours on 240v, warm air venting from behind fridge but no cooling on 240v.
Regards
Dave
Thanks for the reply.
From further research it looks likely to be the 240v heating element, (I take it, that the same as the heating matrix) or the PCB.
I’ll do some research on replacing both.
Thinking about it, if the vented air is warm for both gas and 240v running, then it most probably not the 240v heating matrix..
Hi Birdman101, I had it running for 24 hours on 240v, warm air venting from behind fridge but no cooling on 240v.
Regards
Dave
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Get a clamp on ammeter
This has a sensitive range , then find a single mains wire live or neutral will do (clamp on ammeters don't work on 2/3 core cables) the fridge mains heater takes about 0.5A , this confirm or deny whether the heater is working, remember to switch off the fridge to take a base reading of what the mains charger is taking, usually about 0.2A with a fully charged battery.
This has a sensitive range , then find a single mains wire live or neutral will do (clamp on ammeters don't work on 2/3 core cables) the fridge mains heater takes about 0.5A , this confirm or deny whether the heater is working, remember to switch off the fridge to take a base reading of what the mains charger is taking, usually about 0.2A with a fully charged battery.
Re the 'heater matrix' its a sealed , ammonia filled system , which can't be replaced. The heater is a simple electric element strapped to a vertical pipe ,along with the 12V heater element and the gas 'chimney' , surrounded by an insulation , within a steel jacket . To replace the heater elements , the fridge will have to be removed , which means disconnecting the gas , not something to contemplated unless you have the experience and kit to refit it and ensure the fridge is 'gas safe' and 'room sealed'
That it works on gas means the refrigeration system functions; actually a big plus as when that cooling system fails things can get very expensive, more often than not a whole unit replacement.
Both gas and mains power work by heating a part of the refrigeration system, odd as that seems. In the case of gas, a flame creates the heat, in the mains [and DC] cases elements create the heat.
As suggested, yours appears to have a failed mains heating element, far from an unknown failure, or the element is not actually getting power.
Changing the elements whilst not overly difficult, does require both knowledge and ability.
In cases where those skills are missing then it needs to be given to a professional to replace the element or check it as these tasks involve several safety related issues.
Both gas and mains power work by heating a part of the refrigeration system, odd as that seems. In the case of gas, a flame creates the heat, in the mains [and DC] cases elements create the heat.
As suggested, yours appears to have a failed mains heating element, far from an unknown failure, or the element is not actually getting power.
Changing the elements whilst not overly difficult, does require both knowledge and ability.
In cases where those skills are missing then it needs to be given to a professional to replace the element or check it as these tasks involve several safety related issues.
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Hi JTQ
Yes, I think it is down to the 240v heating element or the PCB.
I’m going more towards the PCB as when the 240v is selected the vented air from the exhaust is warm.
I will have to hand it over to the professionals but it’s good to have an understanding of the most probable cause.
Dave
Yes, I think it is down to the 240v heating element or the PCB.
I’m going more towards the PCB as when the 240v is selected the vented air from the exhaust is warm.
I will have to hand it over to the professionals but it’s good to have an understanding of the most probable cause.
Dave
As you are saying the vented air is warm, surely this rather implies the heating element is working?
The cooling system ought not be able to tell how it gets heated, so if it works with the gas heating it should similarly work with the mains heating it.
Things not adding up here, unless the mains heating is for some reason not operating at the temperature it should.
The cooling system ought not be able to tell how it gets heated, so if it works with the gas heating it should similarly work with the mains heating it.
Things not adding up here, unless the mains heating is for some reason not operating at the temperature it should.
Davewood the element would either work or not . One point to note that if the mains voltage drops, the heating element is less effective and below 208 V RMS the fridge would switch off the heating element and declare a fault .Another point is the fridge must be level for the cooling to work effectively as there is no active pump moving the gas/liquid about to the correct places.
The symptoms you have described do not seem to add up, and I think it might be useful to try and isolate the problem with a few simple tasks.
The general consensus is there is a problem with the mains heating element. so we need to test if the element is working at all. What is confusing is generally these elements will work or fail by going open circuit. Once open circuit they should not use any current from the mains, and they certainly will not produce any heat at the back of the fridge. So your statements about the back being warm, is contradictory to the failure of the element.
What I would ask you to do is to turn off all supplies (Gas and 230Vac) until there is no perceptible warmth at the back of the fridge. Only then make sure the gas is turned OFF at the isolator valve and turn on the 230V ac mains. Check after 10 to 15min if there is any warmth rising from the back. If the element has failed there should be none.
Just as note, when the fridge is powered from the mains supply the intensity of the heat emerging from the exhaust pipe will be moderate compared to the temperature and vigour of the exhaust if the gas is burning.
The general consensus is there is a problem with the mains heating element. so we need to test if the element is working at all. What is confusing is generally these elements will work or fail by going open circuit. Once open circuit they should not use any current from the mains, and they certainly will not produce any heat at the back of the fridge. So your statements about the back being warm, is contradictory to the failure of the element.
What I would ask you to do is to turn off all supplies (Gas and 230Vac) until there is no perceptible warmth at the back of the fridge. Only then make sure the gas is turned OFF at the isolator valve and turn on the 230V ac mains. Check after 10 to 15min if there is any warmth rising from the back. If the element has failed there should be none.
Just as note, when the fridge is powered from the mains supply the intensity of the heat emerging from the exhaust pipe will be moderate compared to the temperature and vigour of the exhaust if the gas is burning.
The cheapest alternative to getting it repaired is do nothing and just run it on gas. Repair costs buys lot of gas.
My selector switch ie 12V, 230V,Gas is dodgy, easiest and cheapest solution was
A) don't touch switch and leave it permanently on gas.
B) was remove fridge, cleanup switch contacts and pay someone to hook up gas after I refitted it.
Plan A was cheapest with no risk of $$ complications.
My selector switch ie 12V, 230V,Gas is dodgy, easiest and cheapest solution was
A) don't touch switch and leave it permanently on gas.
B) was remove fridge, cleanup switch contacts and pay someone to hook up gas after I refitted it.
Plan A was cheapest with no risk of $$ complications.
Hi All.
I have, ice ice baby.
Had a talk with the excellent engineer at https://inter-leisure.co.uk/ near Chester, unfortunately I didn’t get his name but many thank yous to him.
He recommended taking off both the top and bottom external vent covers on the side of the van, saying this increases the venting of heated air by 30%.
He also said that Thetford N97 didn’t have the best mix of chemicals for the transference of heat.
Many thanks to you all for your input.
I can easily live with a fridge that needs just a modicum of fettling.
Dave
I have, ice ice baby.
Had a talk with the excellent engineer at https://inter-leisure.co.uk/ near Chester, unfortunately I didn’t get his name but many thank yous to him.
He recommended taking off both the top and bottom external vent covers on the side of the van, saying this increases the venting of heated air by 30%.
He also said that Thetford N97 didn’t have the best mix of chemicals for the transference of heat.
Many thanks to you all for your input.
I can easily live with a fridge that needs just a modicum of fettling.
Dave
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There still can be a partial blockage, relatively often they will work on gas but not 230v even though heat is present on both, No idea why though, other than more heat produced on gas 🤔
That’s unusual for this time of year, this normally occurs when it’s very hot out, when it is very hot then turning the fridge down (as in not on max) will also improve cooling
Just following up on Martin’s post CAMC say
Caravan fridge vent covers should be removed when the outside temperature rises above a certain point, generally around 10°C (50°F) for Dometic fridges and 8°C (46°F) for Thetford fridges. These covers are designed to improve fridge efficiency in colder conditions, but they can hinder performance in warmer temperatures. Removing them in warmer weather ensures proper ventilation and prevents the fridge from overheating
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