LED road lights

[Wimpy]

Hello all
We have a problem with our 2018 Basecamp road lights so here we go. Engine on and right indicator on, no problem works as it should. Left indicator on, rear road lights flash side lights flash and the lights then start to pulse and continue to pulse. Braking makes the brake lights and rear lights come on along with side lights, still pulsing off the brake.

Here is the confusing bit engine running and car lights on all van lights work as they should. I am at my wits end and have no idea what to do next. I have removed and cleaned the car plug earth connection in the boot and it looks good, I have also opened and checked the van plug and it looked clean dry with no corrosion to speak of. I have connected our bike carrier with its 13 pin adaptor and it was fine. I am waiting for a friend to bring his tow van with his 13 pin adaptor to see if that has the same issues.

Any help would be invaluable as I am at a loss as to where to go now.

Thank you in anticipation

Wimpy

 

[ProfJohnL]

Hello Wimpy,

Whilst you tell us you have a problem now, but have these lights worked correctly previously, or is this caravan or car a recent purchase.

I understand the cars systems works with your bike carrier, which suggests the problem is with the caravan. If the caravan is new to you, then I think you should contact the dealer you purchased it from to get it put right under warranty.

Otherwise, usually when road lighting behaves strangely its often poor 0V return problems, often caused by corrosion in the actual light clusters' I'm not familiar with the BaseCamp so I don't know how accessible the fittings are regards cleaning connectors.

But also some cars have trouble running LED trailer lighting, apparently the cars bulb failure detection systems don't like LED bulbs and throw a wobbly. I do know that you can get LED bulbs that are specifically designed to enable the cars detections systems to work. I believe Halfords sell them and I'm sure there must be other retailers.

 

[Martin_E]

If the van is new to you then you will probably need to get a VLM fitted to the caravan. Sargent Electrical or your dealer would advise on the correct module. As pProf says it’s normally where the car doesn’t see the correct resistance from the LED lights.

 

[ProfJohnL]

If the van is new to you then you will probably need to get a VLM fitted to the caravan. Sargent Electrical or your dealer would advise on the correct module. As pProf says it’s normally where the car doesn’t see the correct resistance from the LED lights.

Can you please clarify what you mean by a VLM?

 

[Martin_E]

The VLM is a plug and play module

VLM6 (LED road light electronic control unit - Caravan) | Shop | Sargent Electrical

 

[Wimpy]

Hello Wimpy,

Whilst you tell us you have a problem now, but have these lights worked correctly previously, or is this caravan or car a recent purchase.

I understand the cars systems works with your bike carrier, which suggests the problem is with the caravan. If the caravan is new to you, then I think you should contact the dealer you purchased it from to get it put right under warranty.

Otherwise, usually when road lighting behaves strangely its often poor 0V return problems, often caused by corrosion in the actual light clusters' I'm not familiar with the BaseCamp so I don't know how accessible the fittings are regards cleaning connectors.

But also some cars have trouble running LED trailer lighting, apparently the cars bulb failure detection systems don't like LED bulbs and throw a wobbly. I do know that you can get LED bulbs that are specifically designed to enable the cars detections systems to work. I believe Halfords sell them and I'm sure there must be other retailers.

Hi Prof
We have had the van for 3 years now and used the same car with no problem until now and of course its out of warranty . The light clusters are sealed units so there is no way to get to the LEDs and the connections to the clusters are clip in which look ok with no sign of damp or corrosion. How about this for a thought. The indicator stalk in the car is loose / wobbly through use over the years and all the light functions come off this stalk. Is it possible that I am getting a small amount of spurious current when indicating that would cause the lights to flash or am I grasping at straws.

 

[bertieboy1]

Hello all
We have a problem with our 2018 Basecamp road lights so here we go. Engine on and right indicator on, no problem works as it should. Left indicator on, rear road lights flash side lights flash and the lights then start to pulse and continue to pulse. Braking makes the brake lights and rear lights come on along with side lights, still pulsing off the brake.

Here is the confusing bit engine running and car lights on all van lights work as they should. I am at my wits end and have no idea what to do next. I have removed and cleaned the car plug earth connection in the boot and it looks good, I have also opened and checked the van plug and it looked clean dry with no corrosion to speak of. I have connected our bike carrier with its 13 pin adaptor and it was fine. I am waiting for a friend to bring his tow van with his 13 pin adaptor to see if that has the same issues.

Any help would be invaluable as I am at a loss as to where to go now.

Thank you in anticipation

Wimpy

Looks like you have a bad earth connection somewhere,current from the lights) will take the path of least resistance and your bad earth connection resistance is clearly higher than the lights filamant resistance hence your lights also flash along with your indicator light.

 

[Wimpy]

err were would I start to look and what at.

 

[ProfJohnL]

Hi Prof
We have had the van for 3 years now and used the same car with no problem until now and of course its out of warranty . The light clusters are sealed units so there is no way to get to the LEDs and the connections to the clusters are clip in which look ok with no sign of damp or corrosion. How about this for a thought. The indicator stalk in the car is loose / wobbly through use over the years and all the light functions come off this stalk. Is it possible that I am getting a small amount of spurious current when indicating that would cause the lights to flash or am I grasping at straws.

Sorry
I really couldn't tell you where to start looking without running a few tests, If you are not confident with wiring and how to fault find then its time to find someone who can.

 

[Wimpy]

Just had a mate come with his tow van, hooked up the van to his 7 pin plug and everything work fine, guess I must have an issue with the car. At least I know where to start looking now, would you agree?

 

[Parksy]

........ How about this for a thought. The indicator stalk in the car is loose / wobbly through use over the years and all the light functions come off this stalk. Is it possible that I am getting a small amount of spurious current when indicating that would cause the lights to flash or am I grasping at straws.

I should say that the indicator switch on your steering column would be a good place to start.

 

[ProfJohnL]

If the switch is loose it should be fixed, but if the cycle carrier works correctly it's unlikely to be the column switch that's causing the problem.

 

[Hutch]

I would have another look at your 13 pin plug check all the connections are tight in the plug and the car socket, also the earth, to the car.
Really need to be hands on to help.

 

[Wimpy]

Yes Parksy I agree and I have a replacement part ordered so will have a go when it gets here and just to follow that up I have just had a indicator bulb blow in the car and that's on order too.

It was just an idea about spurious current as I thought LEDs might react to a much lower current where a bulb wouldn't show anything.

Thank you all so much for your help and with your permission I will let you know what happens.

Wimpy

 

[ProfJohnL]

Yes Parksy I agree and I have a replacement part ordered so will have a go when it gets here and just to follow that up I have just had a indicator bulb blow in the car and that's on order too.

It was just an idea about spurious current as I thought LEDs might react to a much lower current where a bulb wouldn't show anything.

Thank you all so much for your help and with your permission I will let you know what happens.

Wimpy

Led's are far more sensitive, and faster reacting and they certainly can respond to stray weak currents. However I still believe the effects you described are more likely related to the caravan wiring or grounding than the column switch.

I could be wrong

 

[figbat]

If the switch is loose it should be fixed, but if the cycle carrier works correctly it's unlikely to be the column switch that's causing the problem.

If the cycle carrier uses filament bulbs then the issue may not show up.

 

[bertieboy1]

err were would I start to look and what at.

Look at and clean all your road lighting earth connections

 

[Wimpy]

Hello everyone. I have a result wohoo. I asked the guy who installed the electrics if he could come and have a look at the car. He came and hooked the car up to his light box and as the law of sod dictates it worked perfectly. So we then started to take apart the van but could find nothing that would raise the alarm. Back to the car, oh I did fix the indicator stalk with a new part and that works great but was not the problem. Anyway he started to go through all the wiring in the boot while all the lights were flashing, he detached and re-attached wires all with no change until he started to move the wires that ran in to the left hand rear light cluster and wohoo, result. We removed the light cluster and pulled the clip that holds the wires in to the lights. There were signs that there had been something going on with the earth terminal. So with a bit of a clean up and WD40 it all started to work as it should. I have certainly learnt a lot about what and where to look for problems and as you suspected it was a naughty earth that would not light up a filament bulb but was more that enough to wake up LEDs Thank you all so much for your input and a big thanks to Stuart for sorting the problem £40 well spent.
Thanks again
Wimpy

 

[Woodentop]

The common issue of the style you have encountered is a poor earth on the side light bulb or if it is a 5/21W dual filament bulb you might have lost the common earth in the bulb.
One thing: NEVER use WD40 on electricals. It is only a water dispersant (as in WD?) and won't do connections any good. Better look around for an aerosol of something like Servisol or a pen-applier of Electrolube. This will make contacts good with any need to use force, although having said that a fibreglass pen-type cleaning brush (from such as RSOn Line) is a good alternative.

 

[Wimpy]

 

[otherclive]

The common issue of the style you have encountered is a poor earth on the side light bulb or if it is a 5/21W dual filament bulb you might have lost the common earth in the bulb.
One thing: NEVER use WD40 on electricals. It is only a water dispersant (as in WD?) and won't do connections any good. Better look around for an aerosol of something like Servisol or a pen-applier of Electrolube. This will make contacts good with any need to use force, although having said that a fibreglass pen-type cleaning brush (from such as RSOn Line) is a good alternative.

There is a range of WD 40 products one of which is WD40 electrical contact cleaner and I have used it successfully, amongst others from the range, but agree your comments wrt the water dispersant/light lubricant most commonly held in a tool bag.

Buy WD-40 Products | Lube, Brake Cleaners, Degreasers & Chain Cleaner

Explore our full range of WD-40 products - all-round formulas for everyday use, professional tasks, motorbike & bike maintenance.

wd40.co.uk

 

[Hutch]

For many years, engineers were asked to use WD40 (original stuff) on everything, as a water dispersant and corrosion preventative. Until it was found to be bad news for electrical contacts and also fiberglass components.
Just use it on rusty bolts etc,

 

[otherclive]

For many years, engineers were asked to use WD40 (original stuff) on everything, as a water dispersant and corrosion preventative. Until it was found to be bad news for electrical contacts and also fiberglass components.
Just use it on rusty bolts etc,

I use it regularly on my garden tools, hedge trimmers etc. I first came across it in the early 1970s when my minivan came to a halt in torrential rain. An on coming van created a “tsunami “ that hit the bonnet and she stopped dead. Shortly afterwards a policeman came over saw my trying to dry the distributor, went back to his car and came back with an aerosol which he sprayed liberally over the distributor, coil, leads and plugs. He then asked me to give it a try. Eh presto the engine burst into life. A couple of years later I was on a flight deck watching aircraft being sprayed with the stuff. Since then I’ve never been without a few cans, plus the obligatory duct tape and tie wraps.

 

[Beachball]

For many years, engineers were asked to use WD40 (original stuff) on everything, as a water dispersant and corrosion preventative. Until it was found to be bad news for electrical contacts and also fiberglass components.
Just use it on rusty bolts etc,

i always have a few cans in for using on garden stuff and bolts etc

 

[Buckman]

For many years, engineers were asked to use WD40 (original stuff) on everything, as a water dispersant and corrosion preventative. Until it was found to be bad news for electrical contacts and also fiberglass components.
Just use it on rusty bolts etc,

In addition, I have read that certain plastics may react to WD40 and constant use of WD40 in the area may make the plastic brittle and crack. I think the 13 pin connector plug is one of the plastics that may go brittle?