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Pump trouble
- Thread starter joebo
- Start date
I don’t know your particular system but I suspect you have found the answer.
Pumps keep going after the tap is turned off , building up pressure to a pre set level, then the pump goes off.
The leak you have pictured is probably the cause and not allowing the pump to build up enough pressure and switching off.
Fix the leak and then re-evaluate.
Pumps keep going after the tap is turned off , building up pressure to a pre set level, then the pump goes off.
The leak you have pictured is probably the cause and not allowing the pump to build up enough pressure and switching off.
Fix the leak and then re-evaluate.
IMO the leak has to be addressed as leaking water can bring serious consequential problems if not cured quite promptly. [Like you I would prefer to fix things than trundle 150 miles, probably twice to take it back and later collect it, however its important you get the leak fixed even if as I suspect it does not relate to your pump running on issue]
The pump is likely controlled by one of two techniques that switch power to it on and off.
1) Each tap featuring an electrical micro switch that closes when the tap is opened. Each of these microswitches then powers the pump till the tap is closed. All taps then are fed with pressurised water, and water flows out the opened tap(s) till they are closed. The last tap closing severing the electrical power so the pump stops.
2) The pump is switched on if water pressure drops, and off if it reaches certain presets; this by one or two pressure switches. In this system with the water always at some pressure, any tap opening results in water flowing out of it and the pressure dropping switches the pump on.
These pressure switch systems (2) can be temperamental, they typically use a budget pressure switch that's sensitivity varies, and sometimes fails to act either switching on or off.
Any leakage of the pressurised water causes it to cycle, be that internal leakage back through the pump or out of the system. It would have IMO to be a very significant "leak" to keep the pump running continuously. I don't think your leak is cause enough other that the pump intermittently starting and stopping without a tap being used.
On this basis can you identify if you have a type 1 or 2 system?
If 2 can you find a gubbins in the pipework with a "knob" of sorts on it?
The pump is likely controlled by one of two techniques that switch power to it on and off.
1) Each tap featuring an electrical micro switch that closes when the tap is opened. Each of these microswitches then powers the pump till the tap is closed. All taps then are fed with pressurised water, and water flows out the opened tap(s) till they are closed. The last tap closing severing the electrical power so the pump stops.
2) The pump is switched on if water pressure drops, and off if it reaches certain presets; this by one or two pressure switches. In this system with the water always at some pressure, any tap opening results in water flowing out of it and the pressure dropping switches the pump on.
These pressure switch systems (2) can be temperamental, they typically use a budget pressure switch that's sensitivity varies, and sometimes fails to act either switching on or off.
Any leakage of the pressurised water causes it to cycle, be that internal leakage back through the pump or out of the system. It would have IMO to be a very significant "leak" to keep the pump running continuously. I don't think your leak is cause enough other that the pump intermittently starting and stopping without a tap being used.
On this basis can you identify if you have a type 1 or 2 system?
If 2 can you find a gubbins in the pipework with a "knob" of sorts on it?
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As said, pump issue aside its very much in your interest the leak is fixed ASAP, if using the van so adding to the water getting into its structure.
On the pump issue, if you want to further investigate:
Can you see anything like this LINK in the pipework from the pump? It is a pressure switch. A type 2 system in my notation.
If the taps use microswitches there will be wires coming out under them, in the area the water pipe connects, together with those wires being connected up to the van's wiring. A type 1 system.
Taps with wires though can be fitted even if those wires are not used, importantly is whether these wires are "used", ie connected to the van's wiring.
On the pump issue, if you want to further investigate:
Can you see anything like this LINK in the pipework from the pump? It is a pressure switch. A type 2 system in my notation.
If the taps use microswitches there will be wires coming out under them, in the area the water pipe connects, together with those wires being connected up to the van's wiring. A type 1 system.
Taps with wires though can be fitted even if those wires are not used, importantly is whether these wires are "used", ie connected to the van's wiring.
A similar possibility and very common issue in my experience with vans that have seen some use, is if it features a Truma water heater, weeping of that heater's drain down valve. That unlike the tank drain could as the OP states respond to the pump being operated.
OP, this is the sort of item LINK that is the drain down valve that you need to be looking for inside on the van's floor where the external tube is. These "suffer" from leaking caused by particles of water hardness finding their way across the valve seat, so it does not seal properly. Can often be "fixed" by opening and closing it a few times when the boiler is filled with water, so the water draining flushes the offending debris out. There is usually a vent valve associated with that draining looking like this LINK, try opening that as well as doing so significantly increases the draining flow, and could itself be a leak source.
Best investigated with laying under the van viewing you leak with someone inside opening each of these and therefore allowing you to observe if these are associated with that leak.
Similarly you could check Martin's internal tank drain down possibility. In my van that drain down is accessed through the internal tank's "handhole" to a small sink drain down plus in the "sump well" of the tank. Mine is on a chain as used in sinks and as said small, about 1.5 cm in dia.
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As I note you have an Alde system it might be worth to see if the leaking fluid it is fresh water or Alde heating system fluid. With a clean white tissue try to dampen it with the leaking fluid, if the fluid is from the Alde inhibited water system there could be a perceptible mauve tint to it.
I suspect it is fresh water but best to do this simple check.
Alde systems if too filled will dump excess heating fluid to sort themselves out, this occurs as the fluid heats up and expands out of the Alde header tank's overflow or some can dribble via its vent tube.
As there are no micro switches with cables from the taps, then there has to be a pressure switch somewhere in the cold fresh water system. Just a matter of finding it.
I suspect it is fresh water but best to do this simple check.
Alde systems if too filled will dump excess heating fluid to sort themselves out, this occurs as the fluid heats up and expands out of the Alde header tank's overflow or some can dribble via its vent tube.
As there are no micro switches with cables from the taps, then there has to be a pressure switch somewhere in the cold fresh water system. Just a matter of finding it.
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