Dometic fridge igniter won't push in

[borderbilly]

Still eating my popcorn 🍿

 

[Tel7]

If you recall I did say the manual in my opinion was confusing...

Thanks again John.

 

[Tel7]

Hi Tel7

Welcome.
I have the same fridge and have experienced the same problem.
The battery corroded and gets jammed inside the housing.
Looking at your video the push button appears stuck in the pushed in position.
With some gentle persuasion you should be able to twist the button anti clockwise and pull it out.
You will then see a meta tube which holds the battery. That will be seized. Use some penetrating fluid overnight and remove the battery AAA.

See this

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1032246113850329

View: https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=1032246113850329&surface_type=vod&referral_source=vod_deeplink_unit

Sounds great, thanks very much Dustydog. Good to have someone who's seen the same problem and is willing to take the time to share what they learned. I'll try that next time I'm at the caravan, which could be weeks or months from now.

Re penetrating fluid, I already have the following: CRC 5.56, isopropyl alcohol, WD40 and Ronsonol lighter fluid. Can you identify any of those that should be OK or do you think I should buy something?

 

[Tel7]

Amazing Prof.
Frankly it’s Friday and I really can’t be bothered .
I have exactly the same model as the OP. The RML 8550 . No one has mentioned anything else.
Here’s the photos just now of my battery powered igniter.
Bailey via their spares dept specifically sell the new battery powered igniter system for the RML 8550 as do a number of other suppliers.

I will stand corrected on one point . The grey button attached to the metal canister is removed by turning clockwise and replaced and fixed by turning 90degs anti-clockwise once the ears have entered the little slots.

Dometic Fridge Igniter Battery - RML 8330 / RML 8550 - 207999325 - Dometic - Caratech Caravan Parts

Dometic Fridge Igniter Battery. For RML 8330 and RML 8550 Models. Body Size 65 x 37 mm. Product Code -207999325. Replaces 292302482.

caratechcaravanparts.com

Even the OP mentions a battery😉

Thanks again for all that, Dustydog.

Does yours have a "rating plate" inside it, as described on the right hand side of page 10 of this Operating Manual? If so, where is it exactly, please? I couldn't see one when I had a quick look inside last month, but maybe I didn't look in the right spot. I got the model number from the caravan's Owner's Manual (page 4-17), which describes it as an "RM 8550L", which I assume was a typo meant to read "RML 8550".

 

[Tel7]

The OP was very specific Hutch and described exactly my model. Hence my photos .

Terry
Open the door wide and ...

This could be just what I need for this problem or someday, thanks again very much for taking the time to share your expertise, Dustydog! Is there any need to move the fridge at all to do this, because I wouldn't know how to.

 

[otherclive]

Sounds great, thanks very much Dustydog. Good to have someone who's seen the same problem and is willing to take the time to share what they learned. I'll try that next time I'm at the caravan, which could be weeks or months from now.

Re penetrating fluid, I already have the following: CRC 5.56, isopropyl alcohol, WD40 and Ronsonol lighter fluid. Can you identify any of those that should be OK or do you think I should buy something?

I’d use the alcohol. If your WD 40 is the general purpose lubricant/water dispersant (multi use) it should not be used if there are plastic parts as it can affect some categories of plastic. WD40 though do manufacture a penetrating oil, and other fluids too. But the alcohol should be fine.

 

[otherclive]

I’d use the alcohol. If your WD 40 is the general purpose lubricant/water dispersant (multi use) it should not be used if there are plastic parts as it can affect some categories of plastic. WD40 though do manufacture a penetrating oil, and other fluids too. But the alcohol should be fine.

Just looked up CRC and as an electric contact cleaner that would be my first choice.

 

[Dustydog]

Just looked up CRC and as an electric contact cleaner that would be my first choice.

Tel,
The seizure is caused by the battery leaking and corroding the parts. Best to change the battery annually.

I used electrical contact spray. Once the three portable components were removed I then sprayed the fluid into the actual battery housing fixed to the fridge.
On the bench it was clear my corroded battery wouldn’t budge. I used penetrating fluid, aka Plus gas, overnight . That broke down the corroded seal and allowed me to separate the battery from the metal housing.
Clean up the housing with electrical contact spray. Be careful not to lose the little spring deep inside the metal battery case.

I discovered the grey plastic button had split where it is usually an interference fit onto the metal case. I glued mine with a little JB weld epoxy.A super glue would work but I find the Cyanoacrylate tend to dry out and the seal breaks.

Hope you get it all fixed👍

 

[Dustydog]

This could be just what I need for this problem or someday, thanks again very much for taking the time to share your expertise, Dustydog! Is there any need to move the fridge at all to do this, because I wouldn't know how to.

No you do not need to remove the fridge.

If the corrosion is so bad you will not be able to remove the grey button, the metal tube and battery. Follow my instructions in #15.


The Rating Plate is inside at the bottom behind salad box stuck on the rear wall

 

[Dustydog]

Still eating my popcorn 🍿

How’s your indigestion 🔥

 

[ProfJohnL]

OK, humble pie eaten, I may have got this one wrong - thanks Dometic model table.

Where a dry cell battery has leaked and produced the white corrosion in TV remotes, toys, battery operated Christmas lights clocks etc, its best to remove the affected components from the appliance and deal with them over paper towels or a sink with the plug hole closed just in case an small bits or screws drop off

White vinegar will dissolve the white battery corrosion. I tend to use an old tooth brush to apply and scrub the vinegar over the affected components. If possible.

Unfortunately if the battery leakage has been allowed to occur for some extended time, it can permanently damage some metals or components which means cleaning may not be enough to restore function.

Whilst the vinegar neutralises the alkaline battery contamination, its necessary to be able to wash any vinegar residue away. Depending on the function of the components and the materials involved I may use tap water, or IsoPropyl Alcohol (99.9%) sometimes called rubbing alcohol or IPA and a brush. The IPA is good becasue it evaporates away very quickly. Alternatively an aerosol switch cleaner would be good to remove the vinegar residue.

Its important to make sure the components are fully dry before reassembly. I will often use our oven or air fryer both of which have dehumidifying settings and only apply sub 80C temperatures.

 

[Hutch]

At first Prof, * thought you meant Indian Pale Ale. Had to re-read it. 🍺

 

[ProfJohnL]

At first Prof, * thought you meant Indian Pale Ale. Had to re-read it. 🍺

After a few of those anything can happen... Hick