We are still using the same cable from previous caravans and the brand new cable that came with our 2018 caravan is still in the garage albeit on a reel. Current one must be at least 11 years old and has been on a reel all its life.
Binned mine years ago, bung the cable in the front locker, job done.
We always use electric pitches so it was coming out upon arrival, so it seemed a needless faff winding it up to unwind it again.
We always use electric pitches so it was coming out upon arrival, so it seemed a needless faff winding it up to unwind it again.
This is what I do, but mines bunged in on a reel. Is winding around elbow and hand any quicker? Certainly not as tidy.
Also not as clean if cable is over muddy areas or recently cut grass.
There are certain professions and activities where managing considerable lengths of cable or rope is a daily task, and they have evolved some tricks which allow them to quickly coil a length in such a way that it can be unravelled by holding one end and throwing the coil away from them, without it knotting, snagging or twisting. I've done it many times on PA jobs, including EHU power cables.
There is a knack to it and you have to hold the correct end otherwise you get a knot for each two loops of the coil when its thrown out. The cable must be payed out starting with the end that was last coiled.
The method has been described previously, but essentially the winding up loop after loop on a hand and elbow, would normally twist the wire, but trick is to reverse every second loop.
As second way of doing it is to make a stack of figures of 8. Lift the cable where the cables cross.
Using a proper cable winder as those shown above, is fine provided the cable is wound up using the reels handle. and unwound from the reel. If you hold teh centre of the reel and use your other hand to pull the loose cable and wind it over, you'll have the same problems as using a hand an elbow
There is a knack to it and you have to hold the correct end otherwise you get a knot for each two loops of the coil when its thrown out. The cable must be payed out starting with the end that was last coiled.
The method has been described previously, but essentially the winding up loop after loop on a hand and elbow, would normally twist the wire, but trick is to reverse every second loop.
As second way of doing it is to make a stack of figures of 8. Lift the cable where the cables cross.
Using a proper cable winder as those shown above, is fine provided the cable is wound up using the reels handle. and unwound from the reel. If you hold teh centre of the reel and use your other hand to pull the loose cable and wind it over, you'll have the same problems as using a hand an elbow
.....I too never use a reel.
Coiled by hand draging through a damp sponge to clean the cable and stored in a heavy duty plastic bag.
Bag always carried in the car to keep weight out of the caravan.
Coiled by hand draging through a damp sponge to clean the cable and stored in a heavy duty plastic bag.
Bag always carried in the car to keep weight out of the caravan.
My main problem is the size of the reel. It just fits in the front locker but a bailey without one or a Coachman with the two smaller lockers might be a problem. It works for me though, but everyone to their own.
I have never used a reel, basically because I have always thought that winding a heavy cable around a tight radius is not particularly good for the fatigue life of the cable, especially when the temperature is low.
However, after reading this thread, I decided to give it a try and splashed out yesterday by donating a few quid to my favourite charity (eBay).
I will report my experience as a novice winder in due course.
However, after reading this thread, I decided to give it a try and splashed out yesterday by donating a few quid to my favourite charity (eBay).
I will report my experience as a novice winder in due course.
For the past 30 years I've used a welding wire reel to roll up my lead. This is a metal cage type and light, and still the original wire being used.
Trevor
Trevor
My reel I ordered has arrived and I’ve cut my 25 mtr lead into a 15 & a 10, the 15 with plugs attached reels up as quick as a flash and then I opened one of the cupboards that gives easy access under one of the beds and it’s one where I store things like awning pegs, a few tools and stuff of the sort and the reel just pushes in through the outer cupboard door, the 10 metre I’ve put male and female plugs on to it and rolled it up and cable tied it to keep it tidy, having that in the cupboard, should I need to extend the 15 it will be a doddle, I’m surprised I’ve never bought a reel before now, £15.01 well spent.
BP
BP
The CAMH would not recommend that, although I see the idea could work, as I often have masses of cable just laying there on many sites. The plugs may not be totally waterproof and could short in very wet weather, so something might need to be done to protect the junction.
I have two hookup cables. One full 25m, and one that I cut into 1/3 and 2/3 sections. For CMCC sites, I use whichever gets me to the post with least slack. For CLs I have the option of nearly 50m if hookup reach. All are wrapped and held with double sided Velcro strips.
It is very important to understand the difference bet weather proof and waterproof connections..Below is an example on a water proof container for the plug and socket.
Loads of similar types available on line.
Loads of similar types available on line.
Similar colour to the Sainsbury bags that I used to duct tape up 😂It is very important to understand the difference bet weather proof and waterproof connections..Below is an example on a water proof container for the plug and socket.
Loads of similar types available on line.
There is a formal way in which the "Ingress Protection" (IP) of a product can be identified :-
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If I need to use a longer hook up I would plug the short length first then take that under the caravan and run that to the furthest point towards the bollard, then a bit of cling film or as mentioned a carrier bag, so when I join the 15 mtr length I can find some where under the van that I can hook the join up off the floor, it would be rare if you’d need any longer but in the rare eventuality it did I’ve also got my 25 mtr bagged and hidden under one of the beds.
BP
BP
I’d be surprised if the example of a waterproof enclosure as per in #41 is no where near waterproof enough going by how it looks to run the hook up through.
Good post Prof. The IP are I think more for submersible applications. The example I pictured says it is waterproof but no IP grading. But better than nothing or maybe not as good as the good old carrier bag😜
If you look at the chart I posted you will see the IP grading is not just about submerging, it covers a range of situations and not all of them are liquids. Low numbers low protection high numbers better protection.
As for the effectiveness of the item pictured, I couldn't tell how water proof its is, so it's entirely possible that plastic carrier bag might be better
.Just a note when I have had to use cables outside that are jointed, I usually raise the connector up and cover it so the cables either side have to rise to the connector, which reduces or stops water or other debris from running down the outside of the to the cable glands.
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