I am not an expert on this subject, but the suggestion by Other Clive looks good and far simpler.
The Fiberfix patch would have to go inside the van as although it sands the OP would still need a good aesthetic finish to the outside.
I had considered plastic welding as an option but not sure how strong the repair would be. On balance Kev your proposal ensures the split parts are bonded supported by the plate stopping the fracture itself from flexing. The windows weight is partly carried by the split panel. Hence my attraction to your proposal. Clive’s suggestion looks good but I am not sure about the final joint strength. I know the plastic welded ones are good so no reason to think this one won’t work. Local spraying of the repaired area shouldn’t be too difficult. Fleety white spray is easily available I think. Good luck mate and Happy New Year to,you and Mags.
Plastic welding can involve the use of bridging “staples” to give strength to the repair. Motor bike fairing repairs being an example.
Not sure if it has been established if the van is GRP or ABS. A quick Google shows quite different methods must used.
Lots of YouTube examples.
When we were in France and had a wheel detachment incident. In most respects the French were worse than useless. They caused various damage but one time the grounded the rear end. Big crack in the corner plastic fender (Unicorn). They took is off and returned with it the next day. It looked as good as new. But that was easy to strengthen from behind.
Many years ago I pulled out of a caravan purchase when I spotted a small crack above the front window. No argument from the dealer and deposit returned immediately. A couple of weeks later I saw it on the forecourt with a totally invisible fix.
I think that this is a stress crack. Once fixed the stress will have been relieved, so should not reoccur.
While Googling I came across the Caravan Medic. I had not realised they did this sort of ‘smart’ repair.
John
Lots of YouTube examples.
When we were in France and had a wheel detachment incident. In most respects the French were worse than useless. They caused various damage but one time the grounded the rear end. Big crack in the corner plastic fender (Unicorn). They took is off and returned with it the next day. It looked as good as new. But that was easy to strengthen from behind.
Many years ago I pulled out of a caravan purchase when I spotted a small crack above the front window. No argument from the dealer and deposit returned immediately. A couple of weeks later I saw it on the forecourt with a totally invisible fix.
I think that this is a stress crack. Once fixed the stress will have been relieved, so should not reoccur.
While Googling I came across the Caravan Medic. I had not realised they did this sort of ‘smart’ repair.
John
Probably it has not been established, but the fracture is absolutely typical of those in a homogeneous plastic, and particularly of aging ABS, and totally unlike fractures in GRP or other reinforced composites.
Without question I would go for a reinforced backing repair, even if the cosmetic side is "solvent welded" filled.
How about a "go faster" stripe in British racing green, top to the bottom of the front, to hide the wound and side step colour matching, plus too much finesse to the finish?
The Fibre Fix patch that I used went onto ABS A frame fairing and to remove it would mean destroying the A frame. It is rated for grp too. The main company make a very large range of products fir various repair job. Here’s the link
https://www.jbweld.com/product/fiberweld-permanent-repair-cast
PS there is the U.K. website for access.
https://www.jbweld.com/product/fiberweld-permanent-repair-cast
PS there is the U.K. website for access.
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I believe that it is possible to reinforce the crack from the back by working from the front. This is for the brave. It means making the crack into a hole large enough to fit the backing patch which is bonded around its edges. When cured, the hole is made good by bonding to the patch. The hardest bit is then trying to make it look invisible.
It is definitely possible, but not by myself. The technique is used in plaster repair. That I can do.
John
You could not do that with the Fibrefix patch that I used as you need to apply pressure to get it to conform to the surface. In my case it wrapped around the corner of the A frame. It also needs UV to cure it. Applying mine to an external in summer surface saw it start to cure very rapidly.
Hi John, the fibre glass quote one was from a vehicle repairer which was recommended by our local caravan centre who uses him for there own repairs, reading down the post and from Dusty I also prefer the aluminium plate idea, once that is on I can see what will be required on the outside.
Hi Dusty, have now got the bonding agent (Tradeweld VT from the glue people) and the application gun, one snag is I have to wait until the temperature rises slightly as it has to be used at above 10 degrees.
Tape is doing it's job at the moment keeping water at bay. Will start to strip out the interior soon so it will be prepared for when i can tackle it.
And off course a Happy New Year to you and Terri also.
Hi otherclive I searched the net and came up with the glue people and found Tradeweld Super fast so emailed them and they informed me it had been superceded with the Tradeweld VT
Find the Spec here
If you or anyone ever need's some, I would just order direct from there website as I phoned them and as I was (just) a member of the public had a job getting them to send it to me.
Hope that helps.
Hi John,
yes got the mixer gun and the chap also recommended some spare nozzels as well. it does look like you can reseal with a cap for future use, dont take my word for that though as I havent read about shelf life yet, if I find out will let you know.
Kev
Well folks the investigation works started today and guess what I didnt like what I found!!
Stripped the shelf and cut part of the panel out on the inside and can only access a small part of the crack.
That hole you see is all the access I have, the wood below is 6 inches (150mm) in width and forms the head of the window frame, the wood
above is on the join where the roof meet the front panel.
(The cuts you see will actually be hidden behind another panel I removed and the shelf)
BUT THATS NOT ALL FOLKS..........
So on cleaning the surround of the window I found a further 3 cracks!
One in each bottom corner and one slightly off center at the top!
So I have two options, firstly remove the window and rubbers, I then may be able to lift the plastic enough to squeeze in enough bonding agent under the split and bond it to the wood frame that is there. this is obviously a very precarious option as when I lift the split panel it may crack in another place.
So in deep thought in a previous post John mentioned about plastic welding, this is now option two and the favoured option.
I can of course still bond the small area inside
I will let you know how it goes.
Stripped the shelf and cut part of the panel out on the inside and can only access a small part of the crack.
That hole you see is all the access I have, the wood below is 6 inches (150mm) in width and forms the head of the window frame, the wood
above is on the join where the roof meet the front panel.
(The cuts you see will actually be hidden behind another panel I removed and the shelf)
BUT THATS NOT ALL FOLKS..........
So on cleaning the surround of the window I found a further 3 cracks!
One in each bottom corner and one slightly off center at the top!
So I have two options, firstly remove the window and rubbers, I then may be able to lift the plastic enough to squeeze in enough bonding agent under the split and bond it to the wood frame that is there. this is obviously a very precarious option as when I lift the split panel it may crack in another place.
So in deep thought in a previous post John mentioned about plastic welding, this is now option two and the favoured option.
I can of course still bond the small area inside
I will let you know how it goes.
Good luck mister. you're a braver man than I 'tackling' that, (even in my 'younger' days.)
AH thanks SIr Gabs, perhaps I should have said I will engage a professional to do the weld repair, have found two local mobile ones which I will contact tomorrow.
I thought you might try a 100 watt soldering iron and some bits of plastic from an old Airfix kit.
Ok I will get my coat. 😉
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