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Motor Mover not working

B

BarneyBaxter

Hi, I have a Bailey pageant Bordeaux, think it’s a series 7, only just had it, the MM is not working, I’ve tried everything & I was wondering where is the fuse is for it
Thanks
 
What make of motor mover?
My Power Touch, has a very big capacity fuse in the heavy positive cable between the battery's positive post and the motor mover's control box.

IMO blowing that is very unlikely. I think it was 120Amp rating?
Have you a multimeter you know how to use?

Edit: fuse between battery and mover's main power switch.
 
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JTQ said:
What make of motor mover?
My Power Touch, has a very big capacity fuse in the heavy positive cable between the battery's positive post and the motor mover's control box.

IMO blowing that is very unlikely. I think it was 120Amp rating?
Have you a multimeter you know how to use
Click to expand...
 
BarneyBaxter said:
The make of the mover is Truma, no I dont have a multimeter
Click to expand...
Okay, they absorbed Powrtouch, but yours will be way younger than mine; however, has it got any LED lights on the control box?
Do these come on when you switch on the master power switch?
If so, showing what?

Can you take a photo of the control box to put on here?
To enable us to identify what exactly you have to better help you.
 
Last edited:
JTQ said:
Okay, they absorbed Powrtouch, but yours will be way younger than mine; however, has it got any LED lights on the control box?
Do these come on when you switch on the master power switch?
If so, showing what?

Can you take a photo of the control box to put on here?
To enable us to identify what exactly you have to better help you.
Click to expand...
I’ll have a look tomorrow
 
BarneyBaxter said:
There’s no big red key
Click to expand...
Okay, so you need to identify how it gets powered from the battery.
Trace the route of both the very large diameter cables from battery posts to the mover's control box.
Best practice will have included a fuse then a switch in the positive cable run. As said, the "switch" function could be implemented by using a plug and socket, though IMO that falls short of best practice.
First do the simple check, to make sure the box is getting powered; ie the "switch" is on.
That I am expecting will result in illuminating an LED on the box; if so what?

EDIT: The red key is typically accessed via the battery box, usually positioned so it can't be turned whilst there is an EHU socket "plugged" in. Note: don't try switching on a mover whilst on an EHU, some MM maker's claim this can do damage.
 
Last edited:
JTQ said:
Okay, so you need to identify how it gets powered from the battery.
Trace the route of both the very large diameter cables from battery posts to the mover's control box.
Best practice will have included a fuse then a switch in the positive cable run. As said, the "switch" function could be implemented by using a plug and socket, though IMO that falls short of best practice.
As said first do the simple check, to make sure the box is getting powered; ie the "switch" is on.
That I am expecting will result in illuminating an LED on the box; if so what?

EDIT: The red key is typically accessed via the battery box, usually positioned so it can't be turned whilst there is an EHU socket "plugged" in. Note: don't try switching on a mover whilst on an EHU, some MM maker's claim this can do damage.
Click to expand...
Totally agree with all this. Reason I asked if purchased from dealer , they should have demonstrated all that at hand over.
 
JTQ said:
Okay, they absorbed Powrtouch, but yours will be way younger than mine; however, has it got any LED lights on the control box?
Do these come on when you switch on the master power switch?
If so, showing what?

Can you take a photo of the control box to put on here?
To enable us to identify what exactly you have to better help you.
Click to expand...

JTQ said:
Okay, they absorbed Powrtouch, but yours will be way younger than mine; however, has it got any LED lights on the control box?
Do these come on when you switch on the master power switch?
If so, showing what?

Can you take a photo of the control box to put on here?
To enable us to identify what exactly you have to better help you.
Click to expand...
 

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Euro Mover Version M1 - Installation instructions, Operating Instructions

On this LINK

From page 17 for the "English" version.

This ought to give you a bit of insight to how it operates.
 
When I insert a pencil in the reset hole, the green light comes on for about 10 seconds then goes out, so there must be power going to it, still not working
 

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Good, but it almost certainly needs the handset to be linked digitally* to the control unit, what Truma call "Align"; see their page 18 in the document I identified for you in post #15

* establishing a radio signal digital "handshake" so your controller only operates your relay box.

Make absolutely sure the rollers are not engaged with the tyres whilst setting it up!
 
Dustydog said:
Some used a separate 7 pin socket , sometimes mounted on the A frame. Plug in the caravans 7 pin plug, makes the mover circuit like the red key. Do you have this? It’s very unusual not to have a pn isolator of some sort.
Click to expand...
I have never seen that, It certainly would not be god practice as the current rating of the typical 7pin connectors would not be enough to carry the stall current of one motor yet alone two. As far as I know the advice was to use a high current isolator switch.
 
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No there is no safety switch or plug. I have removed the control box & connected the 12v leads from the battery straight to the mover motors & they work. I spoke to A&R electronics & they said that the controller has a problem, I have sent it to them today for repair
 
BarneyBaxter said:
No there is no safety switch or plug. I have removed the control box & connected the 12v leads from the battery straight to the mover motors & they work. I spoke to A&R electronics & they said that the controller has a problem, I have sent it to them today for repair
Click to expand...

From my experience A & R are an excellent company to deal with and the natural "go to" for such repairs.
 
BarneyBaxter said:
The control unit is faulty, I’ve sent it away for repair, I bypassed the unit & run the motors straight from the battery & it worked
Click to expand...
Ours did the self same thing. Changed the box for a borrowed one we knew worked, no difference.
Turned out to be knackered brushes in one motor.
 
Mr Grumpy said:
Ours did the self same thing. Changed the box for a borrowed one we knew worked, no difference.
Turned out to be knackered brushes in one motor.
Click to expand...
However, the OP in #20 related that they have tested the motors and proved the motors themselves work.
 
Mr Grumpy said:
As did mine when wired direct off the battery.
Click to expand...

Presumably you only tested off load?

Otherwise it is hard to see a case where the motors work differently if fed with 12 VDC from the same source?

Under load, then the brush resistance will affect things.

The real life chances of a brush on the OP's motors going high resistance at the same time on each of the two motors, I suspect is low.
 
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