Motor Mover not working

[BarneyBaxter]

Hi, I have a Bailey pageant Bordeaux, think it’s a series 7, only just had it, the MM is not working, I’ve tried everything & I was wondering where is the fuse is for it
Thanks

 

[JTQ]

What make of motor mover?
My Power Touch, has a very big capacity fuse in the heavy positive cable between the battery's positive post and the motor mover's control box.

IMO blowing that is very unlikely. I think it was 120Amp rating?
Have you a multimeter you know how to use?

Edit: fuse between battery and mover's main power switch.

 

[BarneyBaxter]

What make of motor mover?
My Power Touch, has a very big capacity fuse in the heavy positive cable between the battery's positive post and the motor mover's control box.

IMO blowing that is very unlikely. I think it was 120Amp rating?
Have you a multimeter you know how to use

 

[BarneyBaxter]

The make of the mover is Truma, no I dont have a multimeter

 

[JTQ]

The make of the mover is Truma, no I dont have a multimeter

Okay, they absorbed Powrtouch, but yours will be way younger than mine; however, has it got any LED lights on the control box?
Do these come on when you switch on the master power switch?
If so, showing what?

Can you take a photo of the control box to put on here?
To enable us to identify what exactly you have to better help you.

 

[woodsieboy]

Have you turned the big red key on .if you have it may be faulty, easy to replace

 

[BarneyBaxter]

Okay, they absorbed Powrtouch, but yours will be way younger than mine; however, has it got any LED lights on the control box?
Do these come on when you switch on the master power switch?
If so, showing what?

Can you take a photo of the control box to put on here?
To enable us to identify what exactly you have to better help you.

I’ll have a look tomorrow

 

[BarneyBaxter]

Have you turned the big red key on .if you have it may be faulty, easy to replace

There’s no big red key

 

[Dustydog]

There’s no big red key

Some used a separate 7 pin socket , sometimes mounted on the A frame. Plug in the caravans 7 pin plug, makes the mover circuit like the red key. Do you have this? It’s very unusual not to have a pn isolator of some sort.

 

[borderbilly]

Did you buy from a dealer.

 

[JTQ]

There’s no big red key

Okay, so you need to identify how it gets powered from the battery.
Trace the route of both the very large diameter cables from battery posts to the mover's control box.
Best practice will have included a fuse then a switch in the positive cable run. As said, the "switch" function could be implemented by using a plug and socket, though IMO that falls short of best practice.
First do the simple check, to make sure the box is getting powered; ie the "switch" is on.
That I am expecting will result in illuminating an LED on the box; if so what?

EDIT: The red key is typically accessed via the battery box, usually positioned so it can't be turned whilst there is an EHU socket "plugged" in. Note: don't try switching on a mover whilst on an EHU, some MM maker's claim this can do damage.

 

[borderbilly]

Okay, so you need to identify how it gets powered from the battery.
Trace the route of both the very large diameter cables from battery posts to the mover's control box.
Best practice will have included a fuse then a switch in the positive cable run. As said, the "switch" function could be implemented by using a plug and socket, though IMO that falls short of best practice.
As said first do the simple check, to make sure the box is getting powered; ie the "switch" is on.
That I am expecting will result in illuminating an LED on the box; if so what?

EDIT: The red key is typically accessed via the battery box, usually positioned so it can't be turned whilst there is an EHU socket "plugged" in. Note: don't try switching on a mover whilst on an EHU, some MM maker's claim this can do damage.

Totally agree with all this. Reason I asked if purchased from dealer , they should have demonstrated all that at hand over.

 

[BarneyBaxter]

Did you buy from a dealer.

No from a mate, hadn’t used it for a few years

 

[BarneyBaxter]

Okay, they absorbed Powrtouch, but yours will be way younger than mine; however, has it got any LED lights on the control box?
Do these come on when you switch on the master power switch?
If so, showing what?

Can you take a photo of the control box to put on here?
To enable us to identify what exactly you have to better help you.

Okay, they absorbed Powrtouch, but yours will be way younger than mine; however, has it got any LED lights on the control box?
Do these come on when you switch on the master power switch?
If so, showing what?

Can you take a photo of the control box to put on here?
To enable us to identify what exactly you have to better help you.

 

[JTQ]

Search for
Euro Mover Version M1 - Installation instructions, Operating Instructions

On this LINK

From page 17 for the "English" version.

This ought to give you a bit of insight to how it operates.

 

[BarneyBaxter]

When I insert a pencil in the reset hole, the green light comes on for about 10 seconds then goes out, so there must be power going to it, still not working

 

[JTQ]

Good, but it almost certainly needs the handset to be linked digitally* to the control unit, what Truma call "Align"; see their page 18 in the document I identified for you in post #15

* establishing a radio signal digital "handshake" so your controller only operates your relay box.

Make absolutely sure the rollers are not engaged with the tyres whilst setting it up!

 

[BarneyBaxter]

The control unit is faulty, I’ve sent it away for repair, I bypassed the unit & run the motors straight from the battery & it worked

 

[ProfJohnL]

Some used a separate 7 pin socket , sometimes mounted on the A frame. Plug in the caravans 7 pin plug, makes the mover circuit like the red key. Do you have this? It’s very unusual not to have a pn isolator of some sort.

I have never seen that, It certainly would not be god practice as the current rating of the typical 7pin connectors would not be enough to carry the stall current of one motor yet alone two. As far as I know the advice was to use a high current isolator switch.

 

[BarneyBaxter]

No there is no safety switch or plug. I have removed the control box & connected the 12v leads from the battery straight to the mover motors & they work. I spoke to A&R electronics & they said that the controller has a problem, I have sent it to them today for repair

 

[JTQ]

No there is no safety switch or plug. I have removed the control box & connected the 12v leads from the battery straight to the mover motors & they work. I spoke to A&R electronics & they said that the controller has a problem, I have sent it to them today for repair

From my experience A & R are an excellent company to deal with and the natural "go to" for such repairs.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

The control unit is faulty, I’ve sent it away for repair, I bypassed the unit & run the motors straight from the battery & it worked

Ours did the self same thing. Changed the box for a borrowed one we knew worked, no difference.
Turned out to be knackered brushes in one motor.

 

[JTQ]

Ours did the self same thing. Changed the box for a borrowed one we knew worked, no difference.
Turned out to be knackered brushes in one motor.

However, the OP in #20 related that they have tested the motors and proved the motors themselves work.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

However, the OP in #20 related that they have tested the motors and proved the motors themselves work.

As did mine when wired direct off the battery.

 

[JTQ]

As did mine when wired direct off the battery.

Presumably you only tested off load?

Otherwise it is hard to see a case where the motors work differently if fed with 12 VDC from the same source?

Under load, then the brush resistance will affect things.

The real life chances of a brush on the OP's motors going high resistance at the same time on each of the two motors, I suspect is low.