I have a van with Truma s 3002 auto space heater I am trying to get it to work on electricity, all fuses are good and the trip switch is in the correct position, I have switched on the fan ( that is running all ok ) the wall switch is on, the thermostat is set but apart form the fan running I am getting no heat. Has anyone any idea as to what may be the fault or have I missed some thing? thanks in advance.
Truma s 3002 space heater
- Thread starter drsorento
- Start date
Hello, have you switched it To a power setting on the outer ring where you set the temperature. This also has on 'off' position which will override the wall rocker switchThe circulation fan is 12 volt and is independent of the mains heating
Hello again, if you or someone there has good hearing, try listening when you turn the centre temperature knob from low to high. If power is getting to the thermostat you should hear a distinct click come from inside the heater. Turn it slowly.
Damian
Moderator
First thing is to forget the fan.
That is powered by a separate 12v supply and nothing to do with the electric heating part.
However, as it does run it proves that at least you have a 12v supply.
Back to the Ultraheat part of the fire.
With mains power on, and all the relevant switches relating to the fire in the ON position, do you have a green light visible in the control switch when you select any of the power settings?
If yes, have you selected maximum heat (9)?
If you do not have a green light visible, then the transformer on the ultraheat PCB has failed and it will need a new board.
With any electrical fault involving mains power it is much quicker to have a clamp meter measuring the amp draw along the Live input to see what power is actually being drawn, if any.
That is powered by a separate 12v supply and nothing to do with the electric heating part.
However, as it does run it proves that at least you have a 12v supply.
Back to the Ultraheat part of the fire.
With mains power on, and all the relevant switches relating to the fire in the ON position, do you have a green light visible in the control switch when you select any of the power settings?
If yes, have you selected maximum heat (9)?
If you do not have a green light visible, then the transformer on the ultraheat PCB has failed and it will need a new board.
With any electrical fault involving mains power it is much quicker to have a clamp meter measuring the amp draw along the Live input to see what power is actually being drawn, if any.
Mine failed and the overheat themostat had broken up causing no power to the elements,was about £11.00 iirc.I changed the temperature thermostat while the fire was apart[img size=250 x 250]http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk161/daveclarke1950/brokenstat_zps02db08b6.jpg[/img]
First things first, if you think 240 volt is reaching the main control board and there is nothing wrong with it, then you should have a green light lit on the control switch. If not then the main control board is faulty or 240v is not reaching the board
If it has a green light, then by setting temperature dial to 9 and then turning amperage switch through 500 1000 2000, you should hear clicking coming from relays switching elements on and off, if not then again main control board is faulty.
One other possible here is if you have a remote room thermostat plugged into the control board, if the plug has worked it's way out a bit, then this can confuse the control and it will not switch the elements on so no clicking.
Check by pulling remote out completely
If though you hear clicking then it is still quite likely the control board is faulty, burnt out relay contacts, but the limit stats Dave mentions can also be the problem,
If it has a green light, then by setting temperature dial to 9 and then turning amperage switch through 500 1000 2000, you should hear clicking coming from relays switching elements on and off, if not then again main control board is faulty.
One other possible here is if you have a remote room thermostat plugged into the control board, if the plug has worked it's way out a bit, then this can confuse the control and it will not switch the elements on so no clicking.
Check by pulling remote out completely
If though you hear clicking then it is still quite likely the control board is faulty, burnt out relay contacts, but the limit stats Dave mentions can also be the problem,
Thank you all so very much for all the help and advice, I am back from my weekend away in the van and have passed the problem to my electrical wizard, who I am sure will sort it for me.
Once again thank you all.
Once again thank you all.
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