Caravan fell off!!!!

[stu1969]

Hello to the community.



Some time ago I had an accident where I thought I had hitched my caravan and upon driving away the caravan came off the tow ball. I believe that I had hitched the caravan correctly because the locking leaver (Winterhoff GMBH) was in the down/locked position.


This is the first time I have experienced this so can anybody shed any light on how the lever could be in the locked position without the tow ball being in the hitch properly?



I have been asked by an insurance company to provide a report on the prove (or otherwise) that the hitch is faulty, can anybody suggest how I arrange this?



FYI, I have not been able to get the handle in to the locked position without the tow ball being in the hitch correctly



I’m looking forward to your replies



Thank you

Stuart

 

[audiorob]

Although the Alko equivalent is much more common of late it was probably 50/50 about 10 years ago. My Elddis has the Winterhoff so I am familiar with the system. As far as I recall once the head is over the towball the caravan is lowered with the jockey wheel and 'snaps' into place, then held securely and the friction pads brought into play when the handle is lowered, at which point the indicator can be seen. The indicator pointer should be in the green area. If all this is OK, you should still follow advice to try to wind the jockey wheel and slightly lift the hitch and the rear of the car - then all is definitely firmly attached. When not in use my proprietary lock includes a plastic 'ball' and when fitting this provides the same 'snap' fit so handle can be closed and the lock can be fitted, without it the head will not 'shut'.
All this does not explain how the properly engaged link could become unattached as, like you, I believe this should be impossible. Unlike the Alko head the W uses only 2 friction pads, one fore and one aft of the towball, and I can only wonder if one of these was knocked out of line during the initial hitching stage, although that should be shown as red on the indicator.

 

[camel]

When I couple up the caravan and the hitch handle goes from red to green I still don't trust it and I grab hold of the hitch and give it a good tug upwards, I have not managed to unhitch the caravan yet,

 

[audiorob]

You might find this website useful to get the needed report, and I think that the clubs also produce lists and may be able to advise.

Mobile Caravan Engineers. Find Qualified Mobile Caravan Service Engineers.

Search for Mobile Caravan Service Engineers available to repair or service your touring caravan. Find a qualified mobile caravan service engineer in your area.

www.mobilecaravanengineers.co.uk

 

[stu1969]

Thank you for your replies.

I'm I right in my assuming that the (what I will call the locking handle until I'm corrected) should not be able to in the locked position unless the tow ball is properly in place?

 

[JTQ]

Thank you for your replies.

I'm I right in my assuming that the (what I will call the locking handle until I'm corrected) should not be able to in the locked position unless the tow ball is properly in place?

With the Alko at least, that is not ture.
There, if the "shoe" is latched as it does when under the ball, the handle can go down, ball there or not.

 

[Damian]

You might find this website useful to get the needed report, and I think that the clubs also produce lists and may be able to advise.

Mobile Caravan Engineers. Find Qualified Mobile Caravan Service Engineers.

Search for Mobile Caravan Service Engineers available to repair or service your touring caravan. Find a qualified mobile caravan service engineer in your area.

www.mobilecaravanengineers.co.uk

Please be aware that whilst it is possible to use the above people, the only engineers who are recognised by all the makers and Insurance companies are those who are NCC Approved Workshop registered.
Quite a lot of the MCEA engineer are also NCC Approved, just make sure you use a registered engineer.

 

[Jaydug]

My van is fitted with a Winterhoff hitch and upon leaving a site in Spain one morning, I heard a 'clunk' and through the rearview mirror, saw the caravan receding into the distance, having come to a halt on a speed hump. I was able to quickly reverse and reconnect. The only damage was a twisted jockey wheel and a broken safety chain - plus lots of embarrassment over the amused spectators. Five minutes later I was thinking about how fortunate I'd been because by then I was on a busy motorway.
Later in the day, I tried to replicate the event, but try as I might, I couldn't. I had to face the fact - in spite of 55 years of caravanning, I'd been careless. I hope I'm right in thinking it won't happen again!

 

[Beachball]

Some years ago we brought Elddis Crusader Twin Axle that had Winterhoff Hitch the dealer transfered it to our seasonal site free he lowered it down on the towcar and said make sure it goes green and then hitch wheel and gave it a good pull to make sure when we got there to the service pitch it did not want to release but did eventfully .

 

[stu1969]

Please be aware that whilst it is possible to use the above people, the only engineers who are recognised by all the makers and Insurance companies are those who are NCC Approved Workshop registered.
Quite a lot of the MCEA engineer are also NCC Approved, just make sure you use a registered engineer.

Thank you, good to know.

 

[stu1969]

My van is fitted with a Winterhoff hitch and upon leaving a site in Spain one morning, I heard a 'clunk' and through the rearview mirror, saw the caravan receding into the distance, having come to a halt on a speed hump. I was able to quickly reverse and reconnect. The only damage was a twisted jockey wheel and a broken safety chain - plus lots of embarrassment over the amused spectators. Five minutes later I was thinking about how fortunate I'd been because by then I was on a busy motorway.
Later in the day, I tried to replicate the event, but try as I might, I couldn't. I had to face the fact - in spite of 55 years of caravanning, I'd been careless. I hope I'm right in thinking it won't happen again!

Like me, were you able to get the locking handle into the 'locked' position?

 

[JezzerB]

I always drop the van onto the towball connect everything up etc then use the nose wheel to wind down -if it lifts the back of the car(truck) I know I am good to go! Incidentally ours wouldn't come off easily last time out-it took a heck of a lot of lifting of the drawbar with the noseleg!

 

[CustardAvenger]

I always drop the van onto the towball connect everything up etc then use the nose wheel to wind down -if it lifts the back of the car(truck) I know I am good to go! ...

This is the process taught if you wish to pass the B+E test: as unhitching/rehitching is part of the test.

The correct* process (once the trailer has been visually inspected) is to position the towball under the hitch> connect breakaway cable> drop hitch onto ball> wind down jockey wheel to check connection> Wind up Jockey wheel> perform test again> Secure jockey wheel > connect electrics > check road lights. There was no stabiliser on the B+E test trailer so I only engage that that after I have done the check. When unhitching, the breakaway cable is removed last.

*This is process I was taught and performed during the test.

 

[Raywood]

I would think that the hitch had not engaged and the towball was resting on it. The locking handle will simply move the mechanism to the locked position even if the towball is not in the hitch, The best bet is simply to lift the hitch with the jockey wheel once connected,as the others say, which would quickly show up the problem.
I would not say we have all made that mistake, but I certainly have, but in most cases the two will separate at very slow speed on the first bump, so only the break away cable suffers.
If there was a problem with the mechanism I think it would be widespread and we would have all known about it.

 

[JTQ]

Reading and looking at the WS3000 manual, as an example, it is interesting to note here that the ball retaining shoe is "set" by the weight bearing onto the ball.
I can see no obvious interlock, as with the aks-3004 where there the hitch handle is inhibited from "setting", unless the ball is not there or is not fully seated and secured.
I suspect in the WS3000's case it is the little mentioned "side securing plates item 1 fig 4, that somehow serve that interlocking function? I know which design I have greater confidence in.

 

[JezzerB]

I'm glad I seem to follow recommended procedure; i always connect the breakaway cable first and disconnect last-just seemed to make sense as a safety feature. But I don't then worry about the electrical connection timings etc-just put them on and remove them-usually last and first but often before a security check. We always check each other too-both of us check nosewheel for tightness-having had it drop on 2 occasions , once when towing and once when moving the van on the motor mover-wondered why it didn't move very fast! And both walk round the van checking all is locked secure and legs are up before moving off-and of course ensuring all the lights are working etc..

 

[Jaydug]

it is interesting to note here that the ball retaining shoe is "set" by the weight bearing onto the ball.

And also by the pulling back of the spring loaded handle. Unless the handle is pulled back, the ball won't enter the coupling.
Likewise with unhitching - once the handle has been lifted, unless it is pulled back, the coupling won't release the ball.

 

[Tuningdrew]

I still get down and look to check the locking tongue is under the head of the ball even after lifting the van and truck with the jockey wheel. Also have a look under the van to make sure all the steadies are up at the same yime

 

[stu1969]

I would think that the hitch had not engaged and the towball was resting on it. The locking handle will simply move the mechanism to the locked position even if the towball is not in the hitch, The best bet is simply to lift the hitch with the jockey wheel once connected,as the others say, which would quickly show up the problem.
I would not say we have all made that mistake, but I certainly have, but in most cases the two will separate at very slow speed on the first bump, so only the break away cable suffers.
If there was a problem with the mechanism I think it would be widespread and we would have all known about it.

I believe you are incorrect in that the locking handle on this Winterhoff hitch can't be locked unless the tow ball is correctly positioned.

 

[ProfJohnL]

Hello Stu,

Your question has been up now for some days, and I think if there were a significant history of unsafe hitch mechanics, it would have come to light by now, and in particular I'm sure Damian would have offered more information.

Before the modern hitches were introduced, there were a number of disconnects, which is why all the current manufacturers have included tell tales that confirm when a ball has correctly engaged with the cup. And since the introduction of these systems unintended disconnections are very rare, and under scrutiny are almost always down to operator error.

As with any such device its continued correct operation is dependant on the equipment being serviced and used correctly. I presume you have maintained your hitch in fully working order, which really only leaves the probability you were mistaken about the coloured flag and you hadn't correctly connected the coupling on this occasion.

Your insurance company has asked for evidence of a fault, I'm sure you will appreciate that its impossible for forum members to tell you. The only way is to get an independent professional engineering report which will require the tow hitch to be fully inspected.

 

[Damian]

I have the Winterhoff hitch on my Hobby van and it is, in my opinion, a better unit than the Al-Ko offering as it only has one handle to operate, BUT, and its quite a big but, it does have its weak point.

The handle has two positions when raised, but to get to the fully open stage it needs to be pulled slightly forward and up, otherwise the locking tongue does not retract, and as you lower the hitch onto the ball, it "looks" like it has engaged, the handle goes down easily (suggesting the friction pads are doing what they should), but the hitch is not attached to the ball.
The unfortunate owner , thinking he is hitched securely drives away and the van stays where it is.

How do I know,,,,Done it......Got the T shirt !!!!

I am quite confident to say that properly applied there is no problem , but user error is the only normal cause of unhitching.

 

[Raywood]

Stu, This is a mechanical actuation, and therefore I am happy my position is correct. Damian is rather more mechanically minded than me and his explanation covers this.

 

[Beachball]

Just looking on Uk Campsite i seem to remember this Topic
My Caravan Fell Off

 

[stu1969]

Just looking on Uk Campsite i seem to remember this Topic
My Caravan Fell Off

It's mine.

 

[stu1969]

Stu, This is a mechanical actuation, and therefore I am happy my position is correct. Damian is rather more mechanically minded than me and his explanation covers this.

Hi Ray
I've had the mechanism explained and I've had a look at mine and it makes sense to me.

There is a pad/lever at the top of the hitch this is pushed up when the hitch is lowered onto the ball. The locking handle can not be lowered until this pad is pushed up.